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Sunshine Face

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Sunshine Face - Right Side 
Sunshine Face Left Side 

Sunshine Face 


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Page Views: 34,408
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2011
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Darrell Hensel and Tim Powell on Voodoo Child. Ph...

Description 

This fantastic expanse of golden granite is stacked with suberb face and crack routes and is an area rich in climbing history.

Some of the better face climbs here include Hesitation (5.10a), Sundance (5.10b), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), Moondance (5.11c), New Generation (5.11c) and Someone You're Not (5.12d).

Some of the better cracks here include Paisano Chimney (5.8), B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9), The Drain Pipe (5.11b) and Tar and Feathers (5.11d).


Getting There 

Hike left past the Buttress of Cracks to reach this wall which sits just above and slightly right of the Smooth Sole Wall.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',18],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunshine Face:
Hesitation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundike   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Hesitation Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Valhalla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Nirvana   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Iron Cross   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Voodoo Child   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Drain Pipe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Moondance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
New Generation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 280'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Ishi   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Browse More Classics in Sunshine Face

Featured Route For Sunshine Face
Ivan approaching the crux lieback corner at the end of the first pitch.  As suggested, a 4 1/2 cam would nicely protect this corner.  We didn't have anything large so smaller gear below made for an exciting lieback!

Sundance 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, then walk left to a left-facing flake system which is the start of the route.P1) Lieback up the widening crack (5.8) to reach a small ledge where another left-facing corner (5.9) leads to the left side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. P2) Make some thin moves off the belay (5.10b) and then wander up the incredible face above past five bolts. After the last bolt travese right (5.9) to gain the aret...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Sunshine Face Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2013

I have a young friend (a good guy) who has done a lot of sport climbing; he said he'd feel really good if he could lead comfortably at 5.12. I told him that a better ambition would be to lead every route on the Sunshine Face up to 5.11+. It's not about the grade, it's about the rock and the lines we draw upon it.