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Sunshine Face

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Sunshine Face - Right Side 
Sunshine Face Left Side 

Sunshine Face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 33.76971, -116.69451 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,538
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2011
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Darrell Hensel and Tim Powell on Voodoo Child. Ph...

Description 

This fantastic expanse of golden granite is stacked with suberb face and crack routes and is an area rich in climbing history.

Some of the better face climbs here include Hesitation (5.10a), Sundance (5.10b), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), Moondance (5.11c), New Generation (5.11c) and Someone You're Not (5.12d).

Some of the better cracks here include Paisano Chimney (5.8), B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9), The Drain Pipe (5.11b) and Tar and Feathers (5.11d).


Getting There 

Hike left past the Buttress of Cracks to reach this wall which sits just above and slightly right of the Smooth Sole Wall.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',18],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunshine Face:
Hesitation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundike   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Hesitation Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Valhalla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Nirvana   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Iron Cross   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Voodoo Child   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Drain Pipe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Moondance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
New Generation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 280'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Ishi   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Browse More Classics in Sunshine Face

Featured Route For Sunshine Face
Mike Graham the crux P2/2008 Photo from stonemasters

New Generation 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side
I can only comment on the first two pitches, which I climbed on top rope. I'll add info on the rest when I climb finish climbing it.Pitch 1. Follow three bolts up the rounded arete/roof to the right of First Pitch. The crux coming right by the bolt on VERY slick feet. Traverse left at the second bolt and then up past one more to No Go Ledge. Because of the slickness of the crux, I'd rate this pitch 5.11b. Bolted anchorPitch 2. Historical crux pitch, but not much, if any harder than the first p...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Sunshine Face Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2013

I have a young friend (a good guy) who has done a lot of sport climbing; he said he'd feel really good if he could lead comfortably at 5.12. I told him that a better ambition would be to lead every route on the Sunshine Face up to 5.11+. It's not about the grade, it's about the rock and the lines we draw upon it.