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 ADVANCED
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Nothing S 
Ancylostoma S 
Bookworm T,S 
Bunny Face S 
Captain Xenolith S 
Chain Reaction S 
Cinnamon Slab T 
Cognition  S 
Crossfire S 
Cry Babies S 
Darkness At Noon S 
Easy Reader S 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 
Flat Earth, The S 
Fox In Socks S 
French Connection T,S 
Ginger Snap S 
Go Dog Go S 
Heinous Cling S 
Helium Woman S 
Karate Crack T 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 
Karot Tots T 
Last Waltz S 
Latest Rage S 
Latin Lover S 
Left Slab Crack S 
Lichen It S 
Lycopodophyta T 
Middle Aged Vandal S 
Moondance S 
Moonshine Dihedral T 
Night Flight S 
Powder in the Eyes S 
Rabbit Stew T 
Rattlesnake Chimney T 
Rebirth S 
Right Slab Crack T 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 
Slow Burn T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Take a Powder S 
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 
Vision S 
Watts Totts S 
Wedding Day S 

Sunshine Dihedral 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA Alan Watts & Alan Lester, 1981
Page Views: 5,641
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Bob sending Sunshine

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Description 

Technical stemming up an ominous dihedral combined with a few powerful moves over bulging sections is encountered on this classic test piece. Although the crux (11+) is at a steep bulge about 10' above a 1/4" bolt and 80' off the deck, difficult moves occur right off the ground and continue to the anchors at the top of Pitch #1.

Location 

This obvious line in the dihedrals is just right of To Bolt Or Not To Be and left of Powder in the Eyes.

Protection 

Multiple stoppers, RP's, HB offsets, and small cams (I didn't use anything larger than an orange TCU). There are also two old bolts (1/4" and 5/16") and a piton that will probably still arrest a fall. Anchors are at the top of Pitch #1.


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By jrb
From: Portland, OR
Apr 25, 2006

I've led this route a few times, and have to say that it is NOT PG-13 line. The gear isn't the best at the start, but it is there. For the most part it's small nuts, with some small cams (I want to say blue to orange TCUs). Bring at least 10 draws. I find the crux above the first bolt, but you can get a GREAT stopper above the bolt so you are not whipping on the bolt.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 29, 2009

Both bolts are bomber and 3/8". It seems the 1st bolt got moved up about a foot and you have to do some pretty hard moves before getting it clipped (unless you pre hang a draw or sling).
By Lizzy Trower
From: Stanford, CA
Aug 6, 2009

I absolutely recommend this route for any other ladies out there with small fingers who are comfortable with small gear. This was a great technical route! Also didn't find it to be PG13 or R. Just bring the small cams (aliens, C3s were good) and the RPs.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 8, 2009

+1 for not PG13. Additionally, as of a month ago, the hanger on the first bolt was loose. I got it back to finger tight, but a wrench would be a better option.
By Amy Ohran
From: Tuckee, Ca
Mar 22, 2012

I love stem routes with small gear, but have to admit this put me at my mental limit. It's safe, but saucy.
By Jon Rhoderick
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

I'll go with PG-13. The gear is pretty frequent, the bolts and pin are great, but don't expect to just plug and chug. I ripped 4 pieces up high, they never even slowed me down!
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
May 27, 2014

As intimidating as the line is, I would not say pg-13 or R. As others have said, gear isn't the best down low but its there. Once you get above the start the entire climb eats small offset nuts. I only placed 3-4 cams the whole route but was able to place nuts anywhere I wanted to. I wasn't concerned about any of the nuts pulling. Its all there, with bomber gear! Get on it!