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Sunshine Buttress (not to be confused with the bigger and better Sundance Buttress) is the often overlooked and seldom visited little formation immediately west (left) of the Pear. According to the guidebook, it contains 3 routes, all put up by Carl Harrison in 1980, one of which is rated 5.7 and two which check in at 5.8. I probably never would've known this rock existed if I hadn't been scanning the guidebooks looking for a non-chimney 5.7 - besides those on the Left Book and the Pear which I'd already climbed - to take a beginner up.
To get there, hike to the base of the Pear and essentially go left until you find yourself at the base of the next climbable formation. This can be a bit trickier than it sounds, since it looks low-angle and uninteresting enough to make you wonder if you've actually found the right rock, at least from the base. However, even though it's not one of Lumpy's finest, it certainly climbs better than it looks, and makes for a decent day of moderate climbing, especially if you've done all the other routes at that grade at Lumpy.
After confirming this with RMNP, this crag is not subject to raptor closures.
1 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunshine Buttress:
Brown-Haired Lady 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R Trad, 3 pitches
Featured Route For Sunshine Buttress
Brown-Haired Lady 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sunshine Buttress
Brown-Haired Lady is one of the least-climbed routes on Lumpy but definitely one of the most unique; you won't find another pitch like its 3rd anywhere on the Ridge.P1. Start at the low point of the rock, more or less in the center underneath a prominent, left-facing dihedral. I've gone straight up the short but steep, chimney-ish start just left of the roof band, as well as traversing to the right to avoid this feature (easier), but either way you're aiming for the dihedral. Follow th...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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