The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa
Despite being so large, on the order of size of any crag around other than Eldo's Redgarden Wall, its distance from the trail head prevents it from being popular at all. It is scarcely known or spoke of.
Even in guidebooks the details for this huge, west-facing wall are sparse.
Unfortunately, the crag, while 400' tall and 1/2 mile wide, is broken by a rotten roof at mid-height for a majority of its width, a choss band which gates access to the splitter cracks above.
Still, it holds at least 4 olds routes, as evidenced by report and/or fixed pins (though details are sparse), and at least as many new ones, with potential for several more. The rock faces predominantly West by Southwest and gets sun from late morning until late evening.
Hike up Shadow Canyon Trail until well past the Devil's thumb, keeping an eye up and to the East. Eventually a massive red and tan wall will appear, Once directly below it's Northern end, hike 300-400 meters up talus to it's base. Approach time is ~1h20m at a reasonable and steady pace.
This is a pitch reminiscent of P1/P2 of 'Over The Hill' in Eldo. A bit of excitement in overhanging flakes leads to good jugs and jams before hitting the real treat- a perfect corner with perfect rock- stemming and edging to the top. Once in the corner, good holds appear after every set of moves of any difficulty, so the climb does not feel sustained- just punk in some pro, make a move, then take a good stance and plunk in some more. The good stances are god-sends, because some of ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO