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State Highway 313
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"Sapper", the tower being "The Pillbox" T 
Candy Corner T 
Class Act T 
Elvis Memorial Corner T 
Finish Line Tower- If You Ain't First, You're Last T 
Putterman's Frisbee : The Floridian Route T 
Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon Delight T 
Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff T,S 
Sunset Tower T 
Sweet Jane T,S 

Sunset Tower 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 210', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1+ [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson 11/95
Page Views: 685
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 21, 2012

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Sunset as seen from a western approach. Unless you...

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb a shallow corner to a beding seam, move left two feet and continue up the crack. Move left to another crack when the one your in peters out. Continue up past a drilled pin to an awesome bolted belay. 100' C2.

Pitch 2: Climb the crack until you reach a drilled pin and step right to a corner. Climb the corner for about 10 feet to another awesome bolted belay. 5.8 C2 100'.

Descent: One 70 meter rope will get you down in two rappels.

Location 

Located on the North side of Hwy 313 a mile or two west of Hwy 191. Look for a finger crack ground to summit on a face. Park on the road and hike about ten minutes to the base.

Protection 

Double or triple set from small to #3 camalot, Hybrid aliens, Tricams, stoppers, one 70 meter.


Photos of Sunset Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Follow the Splitter.
Follow the Splitter.
Looking up the steep 2nd pitch.
Looking up the steep 2nd pitch.
The route is just right of the center of the face.
BETA PHOTO: The route is just right of the center of the face.

Comments on Sunset Tower Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Jan 21, 2012

A 60 meter rope might work, but I'm not sure.
By Bret Ruckman
Jan 23, 2012

On April 20, 2001, Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb Sunset Tower. After working the first pitch on several days, spread out over perhaps a year, he was able to put his project "to rest". He "French freed" the first pitch, then top-roped it, then pulled the rope and led it clean, placing all gear on lead in perfect style. If I recall, it had a thin bit at the crack switch which was the technical crux, and required some critical face holds. Above that section was a perfect off-fingers splitter all the way to the belay, the endurance crux of the route. The lead took him 4 times longer than his top-rope ascent, and he was carrying a fairly hefty rack. It pushed him absolutely to his limit, but somehow he rose to the daunting challenge. I would definitely rate this pitch 5.13 a or b. With the first pitch under his belt, the pressure was on to lead the second pitch free. On a previous attempt of the second pitch, he had rested on a piece, but on this special day he led it without falls, and even looked solid on the dicey final moves, where it was very thin and sandy. This second pitch was probably 5.12b. Sunset Tower is an amazing splitter for most of two pitches, with a short approach, south-facing aspect, and close to Moab.
By Ben Folsom
Jan 24, 2012

That is great to know. I always thought that would be an amazing free climb. Cheers to Marco!
By Skyler Penrod
Aug 15, 2012

Anyone have a photo?
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+

This is a great, straight forward, clean aid route (for most of us anyway). It's located about a mile down on the right from 191, at the end of the rock band, just before the alcove where "Class Act" is located. The belay's are in great shape, but the top of the 1st pitch is small and sloping. My calves were burning for the rest of my trip from standing in the aiders.