|Type:||Trad, 12 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Adrian Lazar on Oct 21, 2013|
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|Comments on Sunset Strip||Add Comment|
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 19, 2014
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wonderful route and destined for mass popularity once it is listed in the guidebooks.
Sustained, well protected, moderate 5.10 climbing with occasional short, harder cruxes. Can't miss the start. It's down and right of Rutabega about 100 yards or so and starts off a rock at a bolt.
Easier than the Grand Wall, and is someways more enjoyable due to the varied climbing and lack of any bolt ladders.
I was happy with nuts, double set of cams from small to #3 camalot. And one #4 camalot.
The 10c crack crux on P4 will get your attention. Well protected, but expect it to be hard. Green camalots in a flare. The first 10d pitch has fun face climbing to a a few moves in a physical corner crack. The 10a hand/fist crack is really cool and has great exposure. I' m a wuss and walked the #4 up between the bolts. The 10d traverse is super well protected for both leader and follower. I loved the chimney pitch. Well protected by 4 bolts and a pin (and optional #3 camalot for the dismount). I left my rack behind and pulled it up with the pack. Making your second follow the pitch with a pack would be cruel and unusual punishment!
1000' of perfect Squamish granite with only about 50' of "throw away" climbing. It ends right at the trail off Bellygood.
Get on it!
Additional info: squamishclimbingsource.com/sun...