|Type:||Trad, 12 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Adrian Lazar on Oct 21, 2013|
|Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Sunset Strip||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The only part that feels like 10d is the section with 5 bolts. And I thought the chimney was really hard.
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wonderful route and destined for mass popularity once it is listed in the guidebooks.
Sustained, well protected, moderate 5.10 climbing with occasional short, harder cruxes. Can't miss the start. It's down and right of Rutabega about 100 yards or so and starts off a rock at a bolt.
Easier than the Grand Wall, and is someways more enjoyable due to the varied climbing and lack of any bolt ladders.
I was happy with nuts, double set of cams from small to #3 camalot. And one #4 camalot.
The 10c crack crux on P4 will get your attention. Well protected, but expect it to be hard. Green camalots in a flare. The first 10d pitch has fun face climbing to a a few moves in a physical corner crack. The 10a hand/fist crack is really cool and has great exposure. I' m a wuss and walked the #4 up between the bolts. The 10d traverse is super well protected for both leader and follower. I loved the chimney pitch. Well protected by 4 bolts and a pin (and optional #3 camalot for the dismount). I left my rack behind and pulled it up with the pack. Making your second follow the pitch with a pack would be cruel and unusual punishment!
1000' of perfect Squamish granite with only about 50' of "throw away" climbing. It ends right at the trail off Bellygood.
Get on it!
Additional info: squamishclimbingsource.com/sun...
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is a fun route, soft for the grade of 10d, maybe more like 10c overall. Chimney was the hardest pitch, takes some time to figure it out!
Combine the off fingers and 5.9 pitch for long pitch. Works well.
Single rack to 4, set of nuts, with double purple and green Camelot, double yellow aliens too.
By Adrian Lazar
Aug 14, 2015
We linked the pitches as follows and it worked wonders if you take care managing rope drag (have 2x double length draws, and about half a dozen single length draws)
- p2 + p3 ... full 60m
- p5 + p6 ... approx. 50m+
- p7 + p8 ... full 60m
It's possible to link p4 + p5 too, but I think p5 + p6 is a better option
p9 has a fixed mangled up metollius cam.
Super, duper route! Get on it during the week in the afternoon to avoid the crowds.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 8, 2015
|I found the rack beta posted above to be spot on. If you were intimidated by the route, I'd bring more small gear. (purple-yellow tcus) Extra big gear would be wasted weight.|