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Sunset North

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure T 
Alpha Omega T 
Arena, The T 
Banshee T 
Beginner's Route T 
Bill's Route T 
Broemel's Route T 
Broken Arrow T 
Bubble Bath T 
Copperhead T 
Cornerstone T 
Crazy Eights T 
Fault Line T 
Flagstone T 
Flute Loops T 
Friday the Thirteenth T 
Ghost Dancers T 
Grand Cave, The T 
Heavy Hands T 
Horribilus Maximus T 
Jams and Shams T 
Jefferson Airplane T 
Jennifer's World T 
Lefthand Crack T,TR 
Lichen to Lose It T 
Mineral Fright T 
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 
One-Ten T 
Prisoners of Zenda T 
Prow, The T 
R.J. Gold T 
Righthand Crack T,TR 
Rusty's Crack T 
S'More T 
Scare Voyager T 
Scream Wall T 
Scream Wall Direct T 
Slip Stream T 
Space Ranger T 
Spring Break T 
Stan's Crack T 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 
Sticht in Time T 
Sunset Boulevard T 
Terrier in Trouble T 
Test Tube T 
Thin Pockets T 
Toothpick T 
Total Eclipse T 
Water in Motion T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sunset North 


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Page Views: 32,868
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006
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Getting into the first slot

Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).


Getting There 

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.


50 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',9],['5.9',10],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunset North:
One-Ten   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Righthand Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Slip Stream   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bill's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   
Ghost Dancers   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
S'More   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Stan's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   
R.J. Gold   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Bubble Bath   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stan's Crack Direct Finish   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 95'   
Jefferson Airplane   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Broken Arrow   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Rusty's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Scream Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Scream Wall Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Alpha Omega   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sticht in Time   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Cornerstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Flagstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Jennifer's World   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Sunset North

Featured Route For Sunset North
Redpointing RJ.  Photo courtesy of Ben L.

R.J. Gold 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North
R.J. is a great introduction to the grade with good gear and a variety of different types of climbing from fingers, hands, a roof and some slab moves.Starting about 20' left of a detached pinnacle, follow a thin crack up and right to a hand crack. When the hand crack ends, angle up and left to a roof, then move up onto a slabby face protected by a single bolt. Continue up the face to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

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