Sunset Glacier  Mod. Snow

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Type:  Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet FA:  Brad Washburn Season:  April - September Submitted By:  A.P.Lee on Mar 7, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

heading towards the southeast ridge

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Description 

Follow the Sunset Glacier to its upper basin and take the shorter southwesterly fork of the glacier over a bergschrund to the small col below the peak's south ridge. From here, climb the steep snow slope to the north then cross a small glacier to the east (beware of big cracks later in the summer). Gain the southeast ridge by climbing a short headwall (the routes crux). The slope here rolls to anywhere from 40-60 degrees. Depending on route choice, some may want to pitch out this short section, mainly because of a bergschrund, which can be particularly hairy. Once on the ridge, go unphill to the summit, beware of cornices to the northeast and avalanche activity to the south. The route is essentially a corkscrew up the mountain.

Protection 

Basic glacier travel set up (piolet, crampons, pickets, etc...).