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One of the most inspiring pieces of rock in the gorge, and there's stiff competition! The routes are world-class, mostly bolted multi-pitches, all with awesome exposure. Back in the day they were climbed with extensive use of aid, then one by one freed, relying heavily on fixed gear. The old, rusty pitons and bolts from that era have now been replaced with more reliable, modern bolts.
Park in the Priest Rock car park and head up the gorge a short way until an access trail on the right. This climbs via iron rungs and fixed ropes to a narrow ledge running along the base of the buttress. The big routes are accessed via the first pitch of Space Tourist (a worthwhile route in itself!)
1 Total Routes
Featured Route For Sunset Buttress
An amenable way of sampling the rock and exposure of Sunset Buttress. The first pitch is the access route for the big routes on the buttress proper. Start directly below the huge overhang on Paradise Lost and follow a line of bolts through a narrow clearing in the ivy.P1, 5.10b, 45mClimb up to a tricky crux through a bulge. Continue up easy ground past an optional belay, to the right-most bolted anchor. 11 bolts.P2, 5.11a, 15mA short pitch to gain the Utopia terrace. Head up and right from the b...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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