Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral)
||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Bruce Spozi, Steve Matous, 1980 ?Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/22/07?|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||189|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 1, 2007|
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On the upper tier of the Sunset Wall, a large, left-facing corner juts out to a Westward pointing arete. This feature catches wonderful evening sun. On the right side of this arete, there is a thin crack/seam that ascends up to the arete before terminating into horizontals, which also take gear.
A good pitch with good gear, although small pieces are needed to sew it up.
Climb up the left side of an arete on the upper tier, on the outside edge of a left-facing corner. This is accessed after doing a few pitches of the 'Original Route
' or some other approach pitches.
Place small gear from the ground on the crux climbing (5.8) to reach a mellow arete with horizontals and features reminiscent of the upper pitch of The Yellow Spur
, or Tiger Balm Arete
in Eldo... shorter of course, but similar climbing.
To descend, head east back to the corner and rap back to the shelf, ~80 feet.
A set of RPs and nuts + cams as desired.
|Comments on Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral)
By Jason Haas
Jul 29, 2008
This is part of Wind Song Dihedral (Original Route in database)