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Sunny Needles Climbs for cold days?

Original Post
Michael _ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,195

Hey Guys, I'll be climbing in the Rushmore/Custer SP area in early October this year and was wondering if anyone could recommend classic routes that would be in the sun (seems like you're experiencing an early winter over there).

For south facing rock, the new guidebook suggests Hill City Road, but the REAL classics (Gossamer, Dark Tower, Pointy Little Devil, Star Dancer, Weird Water, Waves/Tsunami, Solitaire, Second Hand Rose Arete, WASP, GG2W) seem to be elsewhere.

Thanks!
Michael

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Cathedral Spires and Picket Fence have lots of southern aspects:



Go to supertopo.com/photos/11/73/… for a bigger version you can read the fine print in.

I've got the Outlets and Needles Drive maps somewhere...will post it if I can find them.
Michael _ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,195

Thanks!

Mike Gibson · · Payson, AZ · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0

Best bet is the rushmore area. Custer state park is typically windy and 5 to 10 degrees cooler once the temperatures head south.

Best bets are:

Chopping Block area
Baba cool 5.9 (this is always the warmest)
meat is murder 5.11c
blue mascara 5.10

south seas area
wasp 5.9
wasp variation 5.10
sharks fin (good starting point)
mountainproject.com/v/shark…
Pine tree rock - southwest face for afternoon sun
mountainproject.com/v/pine-…

One other good option for the fall is old baldy. The bottoms of the routes are typically shaded, but once you get up a bit, its down to t-shirts if the sun is shining.

Hill city road routes would be the warmest but last option if it is just too cold to go anyway else. Only one good route there, sioux pride. The rest are dirty crap.

If you really want something in CSP:
4 little fishies 5.9
cowboy jazz 5.8
great wall ( bolts are kinda manky )
mountainproject.com/v/great…
Harbinger 5.10 (warmest option)

With CSP, in most cases, it depends on time of day, angle of sun, and wind speed. Routes like nick of time can be very warm unless the wind is blowing.

Michael _ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,195

This is great, Mike. Thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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