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A fun little mixed pitch that stays far enough right of the terrible rock to warrant climbing. Moves up the lower slab to the left of Fresh Squeezed past a couple buttonheads and straight up to a crack weakness in the headwall. A couple bouldery moves leads to easy climbing on the jug-lined crack. 2-bolt anchor lies way up and over the bad rock at the top.
Starts just left of Fresh Squeezed
Mixed: 2 bolts down low and a couple of medium sized pieces for the top.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Sunny Delight. Base photo ruthlessly sto...
Me starting short and powerful crack section. It ...
Russ Walling stink buggin' the lower section.
|By Russ Walling|
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Pic above is wrong for route line. It will be pretty obvious when standing at the base. I went up the giant creaking flakes pretty directly or slightly left of the bolt line. The holds are good as long as they stay on the wall. Under the roof something in the 1" cam range with a couple of full length slings will protect your initial foray as you look for pro above the roof. Slot a good nut and cast off. Holds are big and it is over soon. A couple more nuts or small cams will take you to the summit. Walk off to climbers right or rap from the 2 bolt anchor on top.
Nov 6, 2012
I remember that creaking flake well. The first half of this route was shiterock, but the upper part was a nice juggy crack with dark patina!