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Gary having fun in the great crack.
To start the climb, either climb the a bit shrubbery or climb the clean but unprotectable first 8 ft. Climb the great dihedral following it til it goes over a small roof and tops out on the summit. To descend, do the easy walk right and descend back to the start by squeezing through the slot at the right of crag. Fun route and probably more bang for the buck than you would expect out of a 5.5 (note, if you wish to top rope the route, build your anchor in the excellent crack just below the final roof. A 60 meter rope is just barely sufficient from there.)
This route is the obvious, right-facing dihedral in the center of the southeast face.
Might want to at least double up on your twos and threes cams as it takes bigger gear.
Me sticking it to that crack. Very nice crack and ...
By Tyson S Arp
Jun 15, 2007
Felt like more work than your usual 5.5, but then again it's in Vedauwoo! The crack gets wide before it's all over (think knees and thighs) so you might want a #4 and/or #4.5 Camalot as well.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 1, 2008
A lot more face climbing than Bill's Steal. Definitely felt easier if you don't think "Ooh! A crack! I have to jam it!!". In other words, lay it back.