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Another fun little crag on 221 just below the parkway. The walls face west and has tree coverage to keep the walls cool all day, but it is still the best in the morning. The easy and short approach along with proximity of all the routes surely make this wall a destination area if your cragging on 221. It is rare that you will see another person up there, but there is a bit of road noise. All the routes require a little bit of gear. A standard single rack of cams, or just a set of tri-cams is all that is typically needed. One route in particular will take ballnutz or small brass.
From the intersection of 221 and the Blue Ridge Parkway (near Grandfather Mountain), drive north towards Blowing Rock for a few miles until you see a row of wooden posts on the downhill side of the road. This is the parking area. Walk back up the road south for a few hundred feet towards Grandfather Mountain until you see a small wash/gully on the uphill side of the road. Just after the gully, walk up the hill and wind through the rhodos bearing slightly to the left. The overall time to get to the cliff from the car should be less the 5 minutes!
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Dixie Chicken 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NC : Sunken Treasure
This is the thin beautiful crack at the far left side of the lower wall.This is one of the few routes that requires some specialized gear. Bring a set of brass or ballnutz to protect the start in the thin crack. This crack looks to have eaten a purple TCU. Booty if you can get it! Enjoy the slab up the thin crack, then move left to a bolt. Pull up to the steepness to a short crack, the leftmost of the two. Plug some gear in the crack and pull up onto the slab. Get into the short corner an...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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