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 ADVANCED
Balanced Rock Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 
13 5.4 Corner T 
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 
6.63 Smoots T,TR 
AAHRG T,TR 
Basswood Chimney T,TR 
Beer and Booty T,TR 
Bifurcation T,TR 
Der Glotz TR 
False Dilemma T 
Fear and Trembling TR 
Grandma's Staircase TR 
Invitation T,TR 
Invitation Direct T,TR 
Moondust  T 
Morning After T 
Mr. Neutron TR 
New Box T,TR 
Night Before TR 
R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
Switch Cover Crack T 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

Sunken Pillar 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 28, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Soloing

Description 

Sunken Pillar is directly behind the Oak Tree between Der Glotz and Red Pulpit. Start out on either crack (left is a little better quality). Use blocky hand and foot holds to climb up. Once the cracks diverge follow either crack up. The upper half of the left crack is really nice for side-pull moves.

To set up the Top Rope for this climb the biners should be to the northwest of the Balanced Rock.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Sunken Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Fear and Trembling (9), Red Pulpit (8), Aahrg (7), Sunken Pillar (6)
BETA PHOTO: Fear and Trembling (9), Red Pulpit (8), Aahrg (7),...
Comments on Sunken Pillar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 28, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This is a really good beginner's lead. The pro is good before, during and after the crux. The crux is short and very slightly overhung but stemming and using both cracks makes it a breeze. Takes big gear and hexes very well.

By Jeff Christbaum
From: Muskego, WI
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

As a new leader this was a great first lead. The climbing isn't difficult, the holds and stances are great for placing gear, and the route will take just about any gear you've got. I used a combination of nuts, cams, and hexes. I think I was able to place about a dozen pieces on my first ascent. More could have been placed but I ran out of slings. The largest piece placed was a #4 C4. Tons of spaces for small cams, too.

By Gokul
Jul 14, 2014

For a fun variation stick to only one of the two cracks (the other one is off). Bumps up the grade by a couple points.