Located between Animal Instinct and Evolution Revolution at upper AW. Features unstrenuous, technical slab and arete work. Cruxes by bolts 4 & 6.
Rolofson rates it 12a, Rossiter 11d. I find it overall about as difficult as Animal Magnetism (11c), though a different sort of climbing.
9 bolts + anchors.
|By Dan Levison|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2002
This is a great climb w/ a persnickety crux on slabby, slippery granite. The final moves are exciting and somewhat unprotected on chicken heads leading up to the anchor. Definitely technical, the pump factor isn't a issue due to some good rests.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 19, 2003
Interesting, thin, and technical footwork. Moves are not 5.12, and the lower crux seemed a tad more difficult than the upper. Perfect rock, well protected and interesting. Think thin.
|By Rob Bailey|
Mar 20, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
To me this root felt every bit of 5.12. The bottom crux alone, unless I am missing some beta, brought it up to this grade for me. Add the top crux, even with the good rest, and I think that this deserves to be an Animal World 12. Make sure that the sun isn't too hot when you go for the redpoint. Like Animal Instinct, sweaty hands and slimy, hot rock will kill you on this route.
|By Jesse Huey|
Apr 23, 2010
I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Oct 2, 2010
The first crux at bolt 5 is thin but all there. After clipping bolt 5, throw to the arete on the left, lower but better than the slopers above. The second crux at bolt 7 may be the more difficult. The last bit to the anchors is a bit tense, because you're off to the left and above a bulge.