|Evil Paradise Area
A really nice trad route up the beautiful crack on the left side of the wall. Can be done either by going up into the gully and traversing right into the route. There is also a more difficult to protect start that starts directly at the bottom of the crack. Belayer can anchor into bolts at the left end of the gully, way left of the crack.
See climb 10 on map photo, yellow dots show the way. Smaller yellow dots show the easier to protect variation.
Gear up to red Camalot, wires. Long slings recommended to reduce rope drag. 2 bolt anchor.
|Comments on Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)
|By Aaron Miller|
Oct 26, 2006
the direct start is not that difficult to protect, just need some small stuff. Best to use a cam for first piece off the ground so that directional rope drag does not lift your nut placement.
Nov 26, 2006
I did the FA of this route in 1999 or 2000. We installed an anchor from the mesa, cleaned, and then I led it. I believe Theo Takeda and Alisa Green were with me, but I could be misremembering.
|By Anthony Stout|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 4, 2006
Thanks! I really appreciate that information, added. What a great first ascent, I really enjoyed this route!
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 1, 2008
I expect this route had been led earlier, primarily because it is such a pretty line. Chris Kessler and I used a crow bar to clean some huge blocks off the route prior to the placement of the current bolt anchor. Chris led it and called it Tight Little Package.
Jan 2, 2009
Hi Karl -
It's cool to hear that it was climbed prior to our ascent, but the crack was *full* of choss and dirt - we spent quite a bit of time cleaning (and I'm sure there's still stuff waiting to come out/off).
Didn't appear to have had an ascent, but it sounds like it did. Going ground up, you might not disturb some of the loose stuff, and it was definitely climbable by the 70s generation Santa Feans. Definitely an enticing line.