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Evil Paradise Area
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Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 

Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Kessler & Karl Kiser (or Walt Wehner, Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, 2000, maybe also climbed earlier?)
Page Views: 847
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006

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Description 

A really nice trad route up the beautiful crack on the left side of the wall. Can be done either by going up into the gully and traversing right into the route. There is also a more difficult to protect start that starts directly at the bottom of the crack. Belayer can anchor into bolts at the left end of the gully, way left of the crack.

Location 

See climb 10 on map photo, yellow dots show the way. Smaller yellow dots show the easier to protect variation.

Protection 

Gear up to red Camalot, wires. Long slings recommended to reduce rope drag. 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) Add Comment
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By Aaron Miller
Oct 26, 2006

the direct start is not that difficult to protect, just need some small stuff. Best to use a cam for first piece off the ground so that directional rope drag does not lift your nut placement.
By Wa3lt
Nov 26, 2006

Hi -

I did the FA of this route in 1999 or 2000. We installed an anchor from the mesa, cleaned, and then I led it. I believe Theo Takeda and Alisa Green were with me, but I could be misremembering.

-Walt Wehner
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 4, 2006

Thanks! I really appreciate that information, added. What a great first ascent, I really enjoyed this route!

Tony
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

I expect this route had been led earlier, primarily because it is such a pretty line. Chris Kessler and I used a crow bar to clean some huge blocks off the route prior to the placement of the current bolt anchor. Chris led it and called it Tight Little Package.
By Wa3lt
Jan 2, 2009

Hi Karl -

It's cool to hear that it was climbed prior to our ascent, but the crack was *full* of choss and dirt - we spent quite a bit of time cleaning (and I'm sure there's still stuff waiting to come out/off).

Didn't appear to have had an ascent, but it sounds like it did. Going ground up, you might not disturb some of the loose stuff, and it was definitely climbable by the 70s generation Santa Feans. Definitely an enticing line.