Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bandito T 
Bozeman Bullet T 
Desperado T,S 
Drifter T 
Geronimo T,S 
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 
Space Cowboy T 
Sundance T 
Tombstone T 
Warpath T 

Sundance 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Palen and Mark Scott, August 2002
Page Views: 716
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Some of the more interesting stemming on the cliff.

Start this route by fighting off the barndoor of a very tricky sequence in a corner/groove crack that leads to a welcomed stance at 50' below a steep, and tremendous finger crack. Work up this crack, mastering this stemming exercise, and gain the anchor.

Location 

The 3rd dihedral right of the main corner. There is a low pin in the crack/groove that marks the beginning of the route. Also, on the left wall of that dihedral, there are 3 bolts that mark the beginning of the route "Time Bomb" (5.10d).

Protection 

A standard rack with the addition of some RPs and a couple extra blue and green Aliens for the upper finger crack.


Comments on Sundance Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 8, 2011

Really fun climb. One awkward but well protected crux move, then a really fun corner up high.
By Drake Pregnall
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

After pulling the hard moves at the bottom, be sure to sew up the crack. This is not for safety, as the climbing is not super hard and there are pitons, but as you climb higher, the rope is prone to being sucked into the crack to the point that upward progress is impossible. putting an extra smallish cam or two in down low can save you having to bail off this great climb before the beautiful high finger crack.