Sundance 5.7
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, Verena Frymann |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006 |
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Same start as Wiessner. Climb up up right then left to the base of two broken columns. Climb the left-side of the lower column, then the left-hand crack to the top of a column with a bush and belay.
Climb the jamcrack above.
Finish with "Durrance" or another variation.
Protection Pro to 5".
By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.7
| The crack protects very well. A good alternative to Durrance for those with experience. |
By Joy S
Feb 25, 2011
| Verena Frymann (from the first ascent) was my mother. She died three days ago. Now it can be told... they did the climb thinking it was the standard Wiessner crack. Later, as they drove to another site, Dave Rearick (as she remembers it) was studying the description, with Bob driving (or maybe the other way around.) "Turn this thing around!" he said. "We did the wrong climb!" So they pulled a U turn and went back to do the right climb, and to properly describe and lay claim to the new route.
For anything but historical purposes, I suppose the only take home is, "easy spot to get confused, but there are a lot of good alternatives." |
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