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Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Sundance 
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Voodoo Child 

Sundance 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat Callis, Charlie Raymond & Larry Reynolds, January 1967
Page Views: 6,457
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
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Some fun, balancy moves with wind being quite gust...

Description 

Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, then walk left to a left-facing flake system which is the start of the route.

P1) Lieback up the widening crack (5.8) to reach a small ledge where another left-facing corner (5.9) leads to the left side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. P2) Make some thin moves off the belay (5.10b) and then wander up the incredible face above past five bolts. After the last bolt travese right (5.9) to gain the arete of a left-facing flake system which is climbed 20' or so without pro (5.6) to a stance atop the flake with a 2 bolt belay. P3) Climb face past two bolts into a thin crack with tricky gear placements or head left after the second bolt via Sundike past two more bolts. Descend off the back via Bye Gully or by rapping down the face (not recommended if it's busy).


Location 

This fantastic route lies in the middle of the main Sunshine Face just left of the classic Valhalla.


Protection 

bolts, gear to 4" (larger gear if you feel the need and/or want to drag it up two more pitches)



Photos of Sundance Slideshow Add Photo
One more move to get the jug top and onto Log Ledge.  The second pitch can be seen above with a crux being a couple of crimp moves off the ledge, then up and right the large chicken head.  Up past 3 bolts and then a delicate traverse right to the bottom of the left facing corner.  You step right on the face just right of the corner and continue up a long way with no pro to the achors.
One more move to get the jug top and onto Log Ledg...
Ivan approaching the crux lieback corner at the end of the first pitch.  As suggested, a 4 1/2 cam would nicely protect this corner.  We didn't have anything large so smaller gear below made for an exciting lieback!
Ivan approaching the crux lieback corner at the en...
A sling on this chicken head provides a bit of security but the upcoming moves are up and left which would probably pull it off.  A few similiar balancy mantle/high step moves continue up the wall past 3 bolts.
A sling on this chicken head provides a bit of sec...
Pitch three of Sundance.  It ain't no walk in the park.
Pitch three of Sundance. It ain't no walk in the ...
Another bolt up and then the thin, delicate traverse right to the corner.
Another bolt up and then the thin, delicate traver...
Paul contemplating which way to go. The Sundance finish goes up past the black streak and into a tiny crack system which looked tricky to protect and quite run out.  The left dike system (Sundike) looked much more interesting and fun.
Paul contemplating which way to go. The Sundance f...
It's quite a ways from the last bolt when you finally reach the corner.  And of course the hardest, thinnest, scariest moves are right at the end!
It's quite a ways from the last bolt when you fina...
Pinching and liebacking a bit on the sloping dike was insecure in places but what a great place to be!
Pinching and liebacking a bit on the sloping dike ...
Although it's quite easy up there, the wind blowing from the right made it a little spooky.  It's probably 15-20' up to the anchors from there.
Although it's quite easy up there, the wind blowin...
You decide if the #4 will work instead.
BETA PHOTO: You decide if the #4 will work instead.
Comments on Sundance Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2013
By david baker
From: jamul, ca
Apr 5, 2006

Use a 41/2 on lie back at top of first pitch.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 6, 2006

Sundance is a must do classic on this rock which follows a unique line requiring a variety of climbing techniques including a little jamming, liebacking, steep crimpy moves, mantles, high steps, chicken head gear, a long delicate friction traverse, and a long run out on an exposed face. And that's just the first two pitches. We decided to do the Sundike finish as it looked beautiful following a thin leaning dike system to the left. A beautiful sunny day with gusty winds made this pitch quite exciting as the bolts are widely spread (safe though) and moves are balancy and exposed.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 27, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

5 star route all the way. I remember not seeing the last bolt before the traverse on P2 and I traversed over towards the arete a bit early. I think I ran into a bit of 10d territory, paused too long and took a nice fall. It wasn't until climbing back to that stance again, did I realize there was more "up" climbing to the last bolt. At least it made the correct traverse moves seem easy.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 23, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

One of my enduring climbing memories is of leading the Sundike Variation on a cooling summer's eve with the Sun just above the horizon - pure magic.

By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

first time up this route. Last pitch was hard to protect, didn't have the tiny cams mentioned above, so basically sank 2 bomber 1.5" cams at the bottom & ran it out.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Cool route a must do. this is a great route to do in the winter on a sunny day very little snow run off if any.(NOTE; IN THE SUMMERTIME THE LOG ON THE LEDGE AT THE TOP OF THE FIRST PITCH HAS A GIANT HORNETS NEST IN IT.DON'T F_ _K WITH IT.)Or you know what happens next. bring small wire nuts #3 or #4 to protect the crack on third pitch put one in half way and go. don't like small wires or the run out a bit to much do sundike finish.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

P1) Takes a small nut at the start, and then I just ran it out to the top of the first pillar. Not much in the way of pro in that section anyways. At the top of the pillar, work down and right to the base of the fat crack. You can loop the rope behind the pillar if you want "pro". I then went up the fat crack a bit and placed a #4 camalot. Then I returned to the pillar on the left and placed the rope in a perfect dish on top of the pillar (this protects the second at the start!). Back to the fat crack, up a ways, placed a #5 camalot (new style), and to the belay. Phew, lots of ins-and-outs-and-what-have-yous. But this method succeeded in reducing rope drag and protecting the second.

P2) 10b crank off the ledge, and then lots of 5.9 moves as you wander your way up to the belay. For those shorter than 5'11, the mantels on the knobs might prove to be the mental crux.

P3) We did Sundike variation. Balancy, insecure, but reasonably well protected climbing.

Rapped the route with a single 70m, but I think a 60m will just make it too.

By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 22, 2009

You don't need a huge piece on the first pitch. A single large cam (even a 3.5 camalot or old 4 friend) will do. Mostly, you just have to commit and do it. And, remember, the lieback used to be rated 5.8. Also, as a couple other have said, the traditional finish straight up is tricky and hard to protect. When I fist did this back in the day I talked to a couple of locals and their eyes widen. They claimed everyone finished right on the last pitch of Valhalla. The second pitch will seem more sustained if you're short, but still .10b.

By Darrell Hensel
Jan 22, 2009

Here's another option for protecting the lieback on the first pitch. The nice thing about it is that it's small gear, stuff you're likely to have along for other routes (or the last pitch) anyway.

Go to the top of the flake that is just left of the crux lieback (or, doing the chimney moves at the top of the initial crack you'll naturally be there before moving right to the lieback).

Off the flake, step up on large face holds and put a couple of small cams (around .75) in a left leaning flake/crack. There should even be room for two of them in the obvious placement. Put a runner on them, move right, send the lieback. This actually ends up being pretty close protection, although a large cam would still be better. It even has the advantage of running better, reducing rope drag a lot.

Just another option. And a good one if you don't have any large gear but still want to do the route.

By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 13, 2009

I must say I did this route yesterday and completely forgot my rack of C4's but had TCU's from 00-4 and stoppers. As per Darell's beta above, I was able to safely protect P1 with just that gear. AND, I could fit both red and orange TCU's into the flake he mentioned for extra assurance on the lieback. I'm glad I had read his note prior to forgetting my larger gear, otherwise I probably would have waited to do this route.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jun 21, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Such a fun climb! All three pitches have something that will get your attention. The 10b move is basically a boulder problem right off the ledge, with a bolt at face level while you are pulling it. The mental crux for me was the 5.9 traverse after the last bolt on pitch 2. The moves seemed VERY thin. I was able to get a small cam (yellow C3) into the corner before moving onto the runout 5.6 face. We did the sundike variation, which was great, with very interesting moves. Push, pull, and pinch the dike as you work your way up. Also, both of the hard moves on sundike come right after the bolts, so I found it well protected.

By Adam Kimmerly
Jul 19, 2009

Did the P3 finish and felt it was harder than the crux on p2, though I think I made it a little harder by being on the right side of the crack. My follower found a better sequence up smears on the left side of the crack. A mid-sized cam, mid-sized nut, and two hybrid aliens (blue-green & green-yellow) protected the crack section above the bolt well. The Sundike finish is probably a more impressive finish, but the traditional Sundance finish is good fun, harder, and definitely more exciting.

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 17, 2011

If you want to work your offwidth technique (which I do) and don't care for liebacks (which I don't), you can jam up the last section of P1.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 25, 2011

Leave the #4 at home. It was dead weight for me. Bring your #5 (I am referencing all new Camalot styles of course). A #5 was my best friend ever on the first pitch. I didn't feel like free soloing up 2/3 of the way (no gear should be placed prior due to epic rope drag issues), so I used it to protect above me on the first ledge you come to in order to reach down and back-clean my small gear from the start. I then removed it, free soloed up the small pillar you have to get over to finish the pitch, then placed it again during my downclimb of said pillar. After downclimbing, you can take it out and use it on the crux.

I also put in a small cam in the left leaning crack mentioned above, but it didn't seem high enough to keep me from a nasty landing in the event of a fall; maybe height makes a difference here. The #5 can be bumped up as you launch into the lieback (strenuous but worth it) and ensures a safe potential falling experience.

These written shenanigans will become crystal once you climb it.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 26, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

1967? Wow!

By Tradoholic
Oct 12, 2013

This is one of the best in Idyllwild! Topo is a bit outdated in the vogel book, no pin on p2, new bolt.

SPOILER ALERT!

Traverse directly right at the final bolt on p2, hands on two small black knobs, then breathe for a heady 5.6 runout, no pro after that bolt.