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Sundance Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenaline T 
Banana Peels T 
Betwixt'em T 
Bonzo T 
Bushes T 
Cajun Capers T 
Chain of Command T,S 
Covert Action T 
Curve Grande T 
English Opening T 
Eumenides T 
Firebird 
Grapevine T 
Great Roof Bypass T 
Guillotine, The T 
Hemp Necktie T 
Hurley-Neri T 
Idiot Wind T 
Jet Stream T 
Kor's Flake T 
Last Gasp T 
Laura Scudders T 
Mainliner T 
Mr. President T 
Nose, The T 
Precipitation T 
Progression T 
Redman T 
Sidetrack T 
Slim Pickens T 
Turnkorner T 
Turnkorner Direct T 
Under the Big Top 
Under The Sundress T 
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 
Whiteman T 

Sundance Buttress  


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Location: 40.41269, -105.55162 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 349,782
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Oct 15, 2001
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Sundance Buttress and Sundance Needle covered by a...

  • Sundance Buttress is closed for raptor nesting! MORE INFO >>>
  • Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Nearly 1000 feet high, the best cliff (along with the Book) at Lumpy Ridge, but because of the long approach it sees relatively little traffic. Classics of all grades and types of climbing, including Kor's Flake (5.7), Mainliner (5.9), Turnkorner (5.10a), and Whiteman (5.11). To descend from all but the west-most routes, scramble along the top to a steep fourth-class gully that leads NE. The gully begins at the saddle between the Turnkorner Buttress (the steep, rounded section of cliff most visible on the approach) and the Guillotine Wall, an immense section of cliff which is not visible for most of the approach, but which can be seen clearly divided from the Turnkorner Buttress by a prominent chimney system when one stands in front of the rock. Downclimb the gully very carefully, or make several rappels from trees. Then follow the steep, brushy hillside (really a larger gully) around to the base of the rock.

    Getting There 

    Sundance is the western most formation on the ridge; hike west from the new parking lot ~0.6 miles to the Black Canyon trail from the old Twins Owls parking lot past the Book turnoff, through the cow fence, into the woods, and then keep a sharp lookout for a cairn marking the approach path on the right side of the trail (there is no sign). If you miss it, you'll be faced with a nauseating bushwhack straight uphill. Expect 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 2.7 miles from here

    36 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',2]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',6],['5.9',8],['5.10',12],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sundance Buttress:
    Last Gasp   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   
    Kor's Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   
    Cajun Capers   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 6 pitches, 1100'   
    Eumenides   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'   
    Grapevine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   
    Betwixt'em   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   
    Sidetrack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 900'   
    Mainliner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 700'   
    Turnkorner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches   
    The Nose   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1050'   
    Bonzo   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Slim Pickens   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   
    Progression   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   
    The Guillotine   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   
    Idiot Wind   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1050'   
    Mr. President   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Hemp Necktie   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 660'   
    Chain of Command   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Whiteman   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Redman   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Classics in Sundance Buttress

    Featured Route For Sundance Buttress
    First pitch has exciting stemming and jamming at 5...

    Slim Pickens 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
    It's hard getting back to places I've already been. Glancing up this thing you think: groody looking...I dare say it is 3 star; steep strenuous and six pitches of superb rock. Scramble up to the highest ledge, as sister route, Progression. 1.Start just left of that route. First, easy up to bush below a orange-lichened left-facing dihedral. Jam and bridge (careful of block corking dihedral) a short but vertical 5.9 pitch, 90ft. 2. Continue a clean 5.9 handcrack followe...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of Sundance Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
    The best of the Lump.
    BETA PHOTO: The best of the Lump.
    Clouds over Sundance. Photo by Blitzo.
    Clouds over Sundance. Photo by Blitzo.
    Sundancing.  From the top of the Book on a fantast...
    Sundancing. From the top of the Book on a fantast...
    The Nose appears where shadow meets light
    BETA PHOTO: The Nose appears where shadow meets light
    BETA PHOTO
    Sundance Buttress
    Sundance Buttress
    Sundance on a beautiful afternoon.
    Sundance on a beautiful afternoon.

    Comments on Sundance Buttress Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 11, 2012
    By Julius Beres
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 10, 2015
    CONDITION REPORT 
    FYI Sundance is currently closed (although government site has not yet been updated).

    See forum discussion at:
    mountainproject.com/v/11059669...
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 29, 2002
    There is not a pebble at Lumpy Ridge not worth climbing. The rock is superb, especially the Sundance Buttress. A mostly flat trail through a beautiful valley to some of the biggest rocks and highest quality granite in the state might be too much if one is accustomed to pulling plastic. Some climbers climb for the absolute love of it. Some climbers climb because they think it makes them look cool. Lumpy is for the former.

    Headlamps are useful if you ever have to come down in the dark.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 19, 2004
    Descent info:

    An easy descent if climbing anything from Grapevine and to the left: walk easily to the summit of Sundance and go to the east, drop down slabs between opposing corners for maybe 50 feet and spot a rappel from a tree to the climber's left. Rap 100 feet to the ground, then downclimb a short 10' wall to the trail. Follow trail until it peters out in a boulder field. Boulder hop for a ways and pick up trail again, following it until it wraps around the bottom of Sundance and meets up with the approach trail.
    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Jun 13, 2005
    The line left of Guillotine is Bosch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. Most of the bolts are missing. It's possible to toprope the first pitch off the chain anchors left of Guillotine 160-170 feet up.Topher D established the route, placing the bolts on lead, but someone was apparently threatened by its existence and chopped it.
    By flynn
    Nov 18, 2009
    The trail to Sundance, and the climbers' descent route (can't call it a trail) in that godawful gully, were the projects for the Access Fund's Adopt-A-Crag Day this October. Fifty-some logs and eighty-some rock steps went in, along with some long-needed "barbering" of the brush in the gully. Should be a lot better.

    If you're a first-time visitor to Sundance, be advised that there's now a sign to direct you in lieu of the old cairn. It's actually been there for several years now.

    Have fun!
    By quinndalina
    From: Estes Park
    Jun 26, 2011
    Any one know what the bolted line RIGHT of the Guillotine is? At least two pitches off the ground with well-spaced bolts/some gear.
    Thanks
    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Jun 27, 2011
    That's Cirque de Soleil - 5.12, by Mike Caldwell I believe. Don't let the bolts fool you; bring a shitload of RPs.
    By quinndalina
    From: Estes Park
    Jun 30, 2011
    Thanks, J! Yea, I talked to Doobies about the RP needs! See you out there!!!
    By Eli Helmuth
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Jul 1, 2011
    Good luck finding solid RPs on the main pitch/seam of Cirque de Soleil?
    A few bolts past the anchor into the seam - I couldn't find anything that would hold and ended up punching it to the bolts.

    When I asked Mike Caldwell about it later, he mentioned getting in a slider nut and 1 offset. We talked about adding some bolts at that time, as w/out sliders it makes a sewn-up climb (bolted/good gear) pretty solid "R" rating?

    Let me know if I am missing something on the gear on that second (crux) pitch. I was psyched to onsight it soon after the FA.
    By Eli Helmuth
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Jul 1, 2011
    JS said: "The line left of Guillotine is Bosch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. Most of the bolts are missing. It's possible to toprope the first pitch off the chain anchors left of Guillotine 160-170 feet up. Topher D established the route, placing the bolts on lead, but someone was apparently threatened by its existence and chopped it."

    FYI - in 2001 I started replacing these bolts (smashed hangers) by hand drilling and I think Mike Caldwell replaced some of the anchors? I never finished the project, but it would be great to see this masterpiece returned back to its original state.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Jul 1, 2011
    Thanks for replacing the bolts, Eli. Right now, the bottom half is pretty well-protected for Lumpy. There is a ~30ft runout to the last bolt on slabby ~5.9. The 2nd pitch looks very cool!
    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Mar 4, 2012
    Hey Eli, I was wondering if you were ever on Bosch Cassidy while the bolts were still in. I never was, but I spent a little time toproping on it and became convinced it should be ressurected. Nate and I replaced 2 or 3 bolts around 2005. One around the middle of pitch 1 and 1 or 2 towards the top. We had a hard time finding where the old bolts had been though. Just curious if you may have additional knowledge of their previous locations. We should get that thing reequipped this summer. Stellar climbing.
    By RandyFarris
    Apr 2, 2012
    I think I got the second or third or fourth ascent of this great line right after a 16 year old Topher legally drilled this on lead. It is a great line that was chopped by some idiot. I am all for rebolting this incredible rock climb. Look for natural stances, the idiot who chopped this used a crowbar and ripped out big chunks of rock, so it should be fairly obvious were the bolts were.
    I would be glad to come up and do a little Fred Flinstone action to get this climb revived. If you have any ?, just ask Topher, he will tell ya were those bolt were.
    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Apr 7, 2012
    Yeah, we thought it would be obvious where the bolts had been too... but it's not. Getting Topher involved sounds like the ticket....
    By topher donahue
    May 11, 2012
    I'd be keen to help find the bolt placements and help with the replacement of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. If you Estes crew decide to get together some monkeys with hand drills, let me know. Likely the best multi-pitch sport climb in the Front Range....
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