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The East End
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Barn Dance S,TR 
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Sunburst S 
Thief of Wives 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 1,787
Submitted By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the top of Sunburst


Before the MN/WI guidebook came out this route was simply called "Everybody's First Lead", and for good reason. With time and all the kicking sticky-rubber feet, the route has become slick and polished. Go around the corner from the spraypainted flag to the right, this route is to the right of Left Lane, and goes up the arete and face. Memorable only in that it probably was your first lead. Right?

  • RCM&W #56, p. 126


Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos of Sunburst Slideshow Add Photo
Doesn't do the view justice, but the route has a G...
Doesn't do the view justice, but the route has a G...
Belaying on Sunburst. Shows the arete (don't want ...
Belaying on Sunburst. Shows the arete (don't want ...

Comments on Sunburst Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 21, 2015
By josh wabaunsee
Jul 1, 2007

lots of big stuff falls outta here on a regular basis, just look at all of the microwave sized blocks around the base...stay away
By Eric Friday
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are a lot of polished holds on this route, but it has a few fun movies. Lots of nasty falls for the beginning leader mixed with polished holds makes this route less than desirable. Locking 'biners at the top are starting to get really worn (Apr. 09).
By josh wabaunsee
Apr 6, 2009

So replace them...
By Genghis Philip
Aug 1, 2010

Harder than 5.7, and ugly. So worn and destroyed that it must be a different climb than it used to be. Dirty, sketchy moves. Scrambling necessary over the slabby part of the arette. The protection's actually alright, though, so that's something.
By Sonnabend
From: West Saint Paul, MN
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This really isn't as bad as everyone says. Yes, it probably goes a bit harder than a 5.7 now that the feet have gotten polished but I wouldn't give it a "bomb" rating.
I set this up as a top rope last week and none of the 4 or 5 people that top roped it (on my gear) after me complained about the route.
This really isn't a great first lead anymore, but still worth climbing.
By Landstrykar
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with Sonnabend. I lead this a couple days ago (my second outdoor lead ever) and although it's definitely slick, in the grand scheme of things, it's not that bad. Even where it's polished there's usually at least one good handhold or a big ledge for your feet, and all of the clipping stances felt really solid. However, on the day I climbed it was a perfectly sunny day with mild temps and the crag was very dry; I'm sure that more adverse conditions would make this feel a lot more sketchy. Also, I'm 6'1" so shorter climbers may have a different experience.

I would also agree that the rating is now probably more like 5.7+. If you're looking for your first lead, go around the corner for Cinq Jour, or head over to Jenna's Chimney, and come back to this one when you're ready for a bit more of a mental challenge.
By James Anderson
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Apr 24, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lead this for the first time today, definitely the most polished route I've done. First three clips slippery but a bit better at the end when it gets harder.
By Arthur Morris
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You'll enjoy this route a lot more if it's not your first lead, and if you don't plan on it being 5.7. I didn't see the loose block the Garrett mentioned, that certainly doesn't mean he's wrong.

I thought that the last moves to the anchor made for a solid 5.8 crux, I gave it 5.8+ because my arms are rather longer than the average bear's and I often reach through cruxes and then get yelled at.

I didn't mind the polish as the holds are still super positive and now very skin friendly. I'm sure if I thought it was a 5.7 and was cruxing out on all the rest holds I'd agree with all the folks who gave this a bomb.
By Christopherjohnson717
Nov 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Great view from the top, but the holds are way to polished to still consider this a 5.7. The protection is well placed.
By Pontoon
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Oct 6, 2014

I enjoyed this climb. I never felt sketched out on it, and every move felt easy. That said this route isn't at my max ability. If 5.7 or 5.8 is your max, it may not be a great first lead.
By BryanE
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 21, 2015

Lead this my first day leading outside. Also lead Jenna's Chimney before this. I agree that Jenna's Chimney would be a better first lead. Super polished holds on both but the arete on Sunburst seems like a sketchier place to fall for a first leader. Fun little route, but nothing too special.
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