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BETA PHOTO: The amazing finger crack of Sunblessed
Sunblessed is a very high quality three pitch climb, popular for its memorable second pitch hand crack. Begin at a bolted dike in the center of the wall.
P1: Punch it up the dike at run out 5.9 to the first of a series of bolts. Continue up and then traverse right along the dike at 5.10 to a ramp and the base of a beautiful splitter.
P2: Ascend the steep thin-hands crack for 120 feet to a low-angle ramp and belay. 5.10b.
P3: Head up and around to the right on easy terrain, then continue up the corner vie stemming and face holds initially and then better jams. 5.10b(+).
There are several variations/link-ups that alter the upper pitches. Rap the route (2 60m ropes or one 70m).
Dave in the last pitch
BETA PHOTO: Another route overview. The third pitch out of si...
Brad finishing the first pitch of Sunblessed.
Looking down the second pitch just before heading ...
Heading up the easy terrain before the third pitch...
Starting the third pitch corner. This is where th...
Brad starting up the third pitch.
Brad in middle of the third pitch.
The view from the top of The Solarium.
|By Doug Dickens|
Sep 20, 2007
The book pitches this out in four. As stated do it in three. There is bolts before the last crux crack on the right hand side of the wall. Belay from here or at least have your leader clip the bolt, as blowing it before they get to the bolt next to the crack would set you up for a bad day.
|By Luke Hanley|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2008
I remember the first two bolts off the deck being smashed, so no gear for 25 feet or so. It's probably 5.9, slick , but with positive edges. A great route, but i could have skipped the last pitch (p3) and been happy to go back to camp.
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 23, 2008
I really enjoyed this climb. The first pitch definitely has you go about 25 feet until the first bolt, but I didn't see any smashed bolts.
The second pitch was great except that it's hard to see how long it is so I kept wondering what gear I needed to save for later. In the end I would say that two purple, three green, and two red camalots plus some large nuts (#12-14 BD) would be ideal. I only had two greens and ended up doing some leapfrogging, although if I knew that it stayed reasonably moderate after the first ten feet I probably would have just carried on without leapfrogging.
I wanted to do the last pitch even though it seems to have a reputation as less pleasant. While it's not a three-star splitter like pitch two, I found it really rewarding. McLane's guidebook described it as "hand and flary fist jamming." I was surprised by just how much it flares at the bottom. I got a 3.5 camalot in the initial flare (where it's worst) and actually felt pretty comfortable stemming until the one and only bolt. Once I had the bolt clipped, the jams gradually got better and so did the pro, but it was burly for the grade all the way to the top. No amount of gym climbing will teach you how to do this pitch.
A 70m rope was perfect for getting down in the three rappels.
Jul 24, 2008
Way awesome climb. Glad to see the picture on the front page. Every pitch is good, but the 1st one could be a little scary with the pro or lack of that I remember from the mif 90's.
|By Michael Ybarra|
From: on the road
Aug 25, 2008
I really liked this climb, which has a terrific amount of variety.
The p1 dike moves weren't hard but because of the way the dike angles left almost every move felt off-balanced.
P2 was a textbook thin crack.
On p3, we took the left finish, which I thought was the best pitch: a couple of interesting face moves, some delicate stemming, and an interesting, hard-to-read exit move, with bolts and a little thin gear wherever you needed it. You could easily do both finishes, which I would have liked to have tried if my partner wasn't pressed for time.
From: grass valley, ca
Sep 15, 2009
Easy to miss the approach trail(s). No smashed bolts when I seconded this. Great views.
|By Matt Hoffmann|
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.10b PG13
Stellar route. Every pitch has a very distinct character.
P1 - Seriously runout to the first bolt. Pretty scary but, keep your head together for this one as as a fall even halfway to the bolt would be nasty. (estimate it's 7 - 9 meters up). The movements on the dyke are cool and balancy
P2 - Stellar thin hand and finger crack. Super super super fun.
P3 - The slab was easy and I didn't bother placing any gear but, there are several very loose flakes at the top of the slab before the bolts. Be really careful stepping up there. The flaring corner starts off very flaring but, I was pretty comfortable with a #4 camalot at the bottom of the flare then some stemming to the bolt. Decent jams come eventually with decent gear. Tricky pitch that's a lot easier if you've climbed a lot of granite.
Great climb but, it's disappointing that the start is so unnecessarily runout. I would think the approach alone would prevent this climb from becoming polished anyway.
Notes on the approach. When you leave the main trail you should see the climb Big Fat Joint (with it's bolts) right away. If you don't go back and keep hiking up the trail. We got confused with an earlier exit and wasted 20 minutes trying to figure out where the solarium is.