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If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Two Legged Snake 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Pat Ewing 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Ruby Tuesday 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Scotty Pippen 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Black Out 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Aerospace Cadet 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Irish Jig 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Out To Lunch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 80'
The Odyssey 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Le Pump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Labia 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Predator 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sun Wall
Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
Not actually dangerous except for one or two heady moves at the start of P1.P1, 5.10a. Spicy moves lead to a pin and a bolt. Trend up and right on "eyebrows" to a deep horizontal 15" below a bulge system and belay on 1 to 2" gear. 100" (or link P1 and P2).P2, 5.10. Crank straight off the belay into the bulge system with a #1 camalot for pro. Pull the bulge with a sloper or two to great incuts and great pro. Fight the pump and head for stacked pins. As the angle changes slab up to hori...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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