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|Submitted By:||saxfiend on Jan 6, 2007|
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|Comments on Sun Wall||Add Comment|
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Mar 5, 2007
|Much of this wall is bone dry on really wet days. Shockingly dry. Worth the drive when you just know everything else will be wet dry.|
From: Birmingham, AL
Aug 21, 2012
When walking from the Sandtrap towards Larry/Moe/Curly there is a small trail that goes down hill to the right. It almost looks like water runoff. Take the right then the trail forks and go left. There's a 40 foot face that has five routes with anchors. From left to right they are probably 7/8?..7..6..9..11-. I only climbed the first 7/8,6, and 9. Some guys were working the harder route and said it was 11b.
It's a great spot for some first sport leads. The routes are short, well protected, close to each other.
The first 7/8? has a dead point/dyno to a jug at the top to clip the anchors from. A very dirty crack may provide an alternative but the big move is fun.
Second rotue from left I didn't climb. From the look of it I'd guess a 7.
The 6? goes up a corner with huge buckets.
The 9+? that is to the right of the big crack is thin with good moves all the way up. Higher up you can move a bit left to big jugs but it seems off route. A two finger half pad left hand gives you a high clip unles you move left to the jugs.
The 11b? looks interesting with a low crux, some creative sidepulls, and good footwork. Stick clip needed for this one.