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Sun Wall

Select Route:
Abandoned Ship S 
Ale 81 S 
Bocephus S 
Burly Girls T 
Crack in the Sky T 
Curly T,TR 
Disneyland S 
Dreamscape S 
Glasstic T 
Hey Y'all -- Watch This! T 
Knob Wall T 
Land of Silk and Money S 
Larry T,TR 
Lichen This S 
Lip Service S 
Liquid Spirit S 
Midget Digits S 
Misty S 
Moe T,TR 
Muffins are Burning S 
Nick of Time S 
Nothingness S 
Pop Tarts T 
Popular Science (Golden Flake) T,TR 
Pressure Sensitive S 
Pretty Vacant S 
Silent Lucidity S 
Slug T 
Sneakers S 
Super Grover S 
Tarzan S 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 T 
Wall of Horns TR 
White Gold T 
Windows T,TR 

Sun Wall  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 6, 2007
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Description 

With its southern exposure, the aptly-named Sun Wall is a great place to climb in the winter (and to be avoided in the hot summer months). This cliffline runs parallel to the road into Sand Rock, and in many places you'll see roadside campsites across the way after topping out. The wall is actually a series of free-standing towers detached from the main wall; in many places, the gap is narrow enough to jump across and hike back down to the trail.

The Sun Wall is best known for great sport routes like Misty, but there's also a number of fine trad lines here as well. It's also a good place to get away from the crowds at the Pinnacle and Holiday Block.

Getting There 

From the parking lot, cut left before heading to the Pinnacle/Holiday block areas; follow a trail down the hill and to the left until you reach the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

36 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',9],['5.11',6],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Knob Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Curly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Pop Tarts   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Larry   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Windows   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Moe   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Popular Science (Golden Flake)   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
White Gold   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Sneakers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wall of Horns   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Misty   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Disneyland   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Midget Digits   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Pressure Sensitive   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   
Dreamscape   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Super Grover   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Silent Lucidity   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall

Featured Route For Sun Wall
Eric Kablanow leading Nothingness.

Nothingness 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13  AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall
Crux is between the ground and the 5th bolts, sustained 12b/c climbing to jugs, runout to the top, don't fall....[more]   Browse More Classics in AL

Photos of Sun Wall Slideshow Add Photo
SANDBURGER
SANDBURGER
A busy day at Sun Wall
A busy day at Sun Wall

Comments on Sun Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Mar 5, 2007
Much of this wall is bone dry on really wet days. Shockingly dry. Worth the drive when you just know everything else will be wet dry.
By Siberia
From: Birmingham, AL
Aug 21, 2012
When walking from the Sandtrap towards Larry/Moe/Curly there is a small trail that goes down hill to the right. It almost looks like water runoff. Take the right then the trail forks and go left. There's a 40 foot face that has five routes with anchors. From left to right they are probably 7/8?..7..6..9..11-. I only climbed the first 7/8,6, and 9. Some guys were working the harder route and said it was 11b.

It's a great spot for some first sport leads. The routes are short, well protected, close to each other.

The first 7/8? has a dead point/dyno to a jug at the top to clip the anchors from. A very dirty crack may provide an alternative but the big move is fun.

Second rotue from left I didn't climb. From the look of it I'd guess a 7.

The 6? goes up a corner with huge buckets.

The 9+? that is to the right of the big crack is thin with good moves all the way up. Higher up you can move a bit left to big jugs but it seems off route. A two finger half pad left hand gives you a high clip unles you move left to the jugs.

The 11b? looks interesting with a low crux, some creative sidepulls, and good footwork. Stick clip needed for this one.