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Sun Wall Area
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First Crux T 
Perfect Lie Back, The T 
Sun Wall Left T,TR 
Sun Wall Middle T 
Sun Wall Right T,TR 

Sun Wall Left 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,162
Submitted By: urs on Jul 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Karl battling out the crux.

Description 

This beautiful and sustained finger crack follows a awkward offwidth crack into a clean splinter finger crack up a smooth head wall. With pefect finger locks and lye backs, this is by far one of the best cracks i have done!!!
There are 2 ways of doing this climb which are:
1. Start from the left and traverse to the right into the finger crack
2. Or take the direct start on the tricky offwidth that makes the 10c grade pretty stiff. Though definitly the best choice if ur up for a challenge.


Location 

This route is located around the corner to right of The Perfect Lyeback 5.8.


Protection 

A standard rack from nuts, tcu's, and friends to 3 inchs should do fine and there is a bolted anchor with open cold shuts at the top.



Photos of Sun Wall Left Slideshow Add Photo
Me starting up on the interesting offwidth section.
Me starting up on the interesting offwidth section...
Starting up the crux finger crack. The steepness of the wall isnt showed in the pic but the headwall is slighly overhanging and is hard to see until u climb it.
Starting up the crux finger crack. The steepness o...
Me about to reach the ledge where the left traverse starts and then straight above it is where the real climbing starts with imaculate splinter fingers.
Me about to reach the ledge where the left travers...
Comments on Sun Wall Left Add Comment
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By Ryan Curry
Aug 28, 2009

The first ascent of this classy pitch, as well as the 5.10b just right of it, were made by Jay Smith and friends in the '80's. Both are pretty stiff at their respective grades.
One of my favorite climbs on the Sun Wall is a long 5.10a chimney on the far right side of the cliff. A little run-out, it offers chimney to hands on impeccable stone and is super classic.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 18, 2010

This is a great route, solid for the grade, and requiring many climbing techniques to reach the anchors. Jay Smith had a visionary eye for great routes.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Absolutely classic and quite stiff. Did the left hand variation, bring #4's.

By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 22, 2013

Did the left hand variation. The hardest move comes right before the ledge, with the last obvious pro well below your feet. Had to move in some uncommon ways to make it work, but it was great!

By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

My favorite climb so far at Woodfords.. a mix of everything. Do the direct (wide) start. Don't need anything bigger than one #3, one #2 and otherwise small stuff.