Sun Spot 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 2/6/09 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2009 |
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Description Sun Spot is a fun new mostly trad route that climbs the big right-facing dihedral between Trick or Treat and Hold The Line. A little easier than the first pitch of the Bihedral Route since it's not as sustained. Bring your trad rack and a few extra big cams and give it a go. The route name comes from the fact that the Bihedral Area is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day. There were a dozen climbers here on a 50-degree Saturday in February. Start as for Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to the big right-facing corner. Climb the corner and work up to a bolt on the left. Traverse left at the bolt (crux) onto an arete. Continue up the corner, clip the last bolt on Hold The Line, and continue to a bolt anchor (shared with Hold The Line). Lower from hooks.
Location Start below the bolts on Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to get to the corner.
Protection Standard rack with a few extra large cams. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot are useful. Save one of these big cams to protect a move about 8 feet above the first bolt. 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. The route can also be top-roped after leading Hold The Line.
By Justin Deal From: Denver, CO Dec 25, 2010
| Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb. |
By prod. From: Boulder, Co Mar 26, 2012
| I gave this 3 stars as I think it is a good early 5.7 trad lead. Takes great gear, interesting positions. Good intro lead if you can follow 5.8ish. Prod. |
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