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Sun King Tower, West Face
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Sun King Direct T,S 

Sun King Direct 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Mar 12, 2011

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Sun King

Emilia Anderson photo

Description 

Sun King Direct is one of the most aesthetic lines to be found up here. The route tackles a vertical 80' pillar, with the middle section dominated by a large and unique scoop/hueco.

This is a mixed line, and the gear in the middle is hard to place, with the best pieces being small #4 wires. A #2 TCU can also provide some reassurance. A couple moves above this there is a good #2 Camalot pod before launching back into the scoop and the final two bolts of business. Crack system to the anchors.

A really good line, and worth the effort.


Location 

One of the entrance routes in the Upper Amphitheater.


Protection 

small/medium wires, single set #1 TCU- #2 Camalot. Bolts.



Photos of Sun King Direct Slideshow Add Photo
The business part of Sun King. The route continues up for another 20' to the top of the pillar.
BETA PHOTO: The business part of Sun King. The route continues...
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