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Sun Devil Wall
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Sun Devil 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Walt Wehner, Josh Smith, 4/1999
Page Views: 2,206
Submitted By: Wa3lt on Nov 26, 2006

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Chuck approaching the p2 crux bulge * photo by Di...

Description 

This route is great fun, but it can also be dangerous due to loose rock - wear a helmet and be careful! Days upon days of cleaning went into putting up this route, but there is still potential for rockfall, especially in the spring after the winter freeze/thaw cycle.

Pitch 1 climbs a chossy looking but reasonably good slabby face to a 2-bolt anchor. 120 feet, 5.9.
Pitch 2 is the technical crux, climbing up a bulge on thin holds (with a lot of exposure!). 5.11b, bolted throughout.
Pitch 3, in my opinion, is the real gem. It climbs an 80 foot pitch of perfect basalt with incredible exposure and fun moves. Also 11b, though I consider it easier than the second pitch.


Protection 

Bring 15 quickdraws and a 200 foot rope. Helmets recommended.



Photos of Sun Devil Slideshow Add Photo
Beist seconding the third pitch of Sun Devil in Oct. 2006.
Beist seconding the third pitch of Sun Devil in Oc...
Robin knocking off the p3 arete.  Best pitch on the route!  * photo by Diane McQuade
Robin knocking off the p3 arete. Best pitch on th...
Hagen and Claudia on P3.
Hagen and Claudia on P3.
Rick and Walt, beginning the long cleaning process after installing the top anchor bolts on Sun Devil, February 1999.
Rick and Walt, beginning the long cleaning process...
Climbing on the arete through the crux of the third pitch.
Climbing on the arete through the crux of the thir...
Team Bradshaw cleaning Sundevil before any bolting, that took place many weeks later.
Team Bradshaw cleaning Sundevil before any bolting...
Patrick leads pitch 2 of Sun Devil.
Patrick leads pitch 2 of Sun Devil.
Comments on Sun Devil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Apr 9, 2007

The rock was surprisingly solid, I guess we were expecting the worst bc/ of all the warnings. After the crux bulge on p2, it appears the majority of climbers take a line just right of the bolt line. p3 was awesome, some delicate climbing around the arete. p3 is well worth it! Rap easily with 1 60m rope.

By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 24, 2007

When asked I tell people that this is my favorite climb at Diablo. Its a great way to warm up with an easy, thought provoking first pitch, and with the second and third pitches continuing on intricate, exposed and increasingly spectacular rock. If you're fast it can be done in an hour round trip. Please give Josh Smith credit for establishing the route with Walt and I.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 17, 2008

This really is a must do at Diablo. If you climb at this level or above you will have a great time. The third pitch is one of the most amazing and technical 5.11's I've ever been on. The exposure when leading the 3rd pitch is surreal.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 1, 2008

This route kicks ass. Looks broken, but was surprisingly clean. P2 holds the crux, but it eases off after that. P3 was really great with fun movement and great exposure the entire way. Thanks to all involved in putting this one up!

By Wa3lt
Jan 2, 2009

I think this is probably the coolest route Rick/Josh/Me ever put up. Well, me anyway. Rick and Josh are a bit more prolific, especially since they actually live near Diablo and still climb outside of the gym...unlike yours truly.

The rock was *really* bad when we started working on it, though. You have no idea. I think Ken or someone else has a big block that we thought was solid with a *bolt in it* that fell off the route when we were still cleaning!

By Dave Wachter
Jul 31, 2009

4 stars for the third pitch!! Tricky onsight, with initially improbable-looking moves. Super aesthetic line, awesome exposure, and good rock quality.
3 stars for the second - some good climbing, including one great dynamic move to a huge jug (crux), but the pitch is relatively short and unsustained.
The first pitch is choss. Wear helmets (leader, belayer, and bystanders) and be very careful what you pull on.