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Sun Dancer 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: KC Baum and Don Anderson, 10/15/87?
Page Views: 4,850
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Aug 8, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: The Sun Dancer pitch.

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Description 

This is the most obvious finish to any route that reaches "Sundeck Ledge". The ledge can be reached by the "Standard Route" to keep the grade at 5.8, but the recommended approach would have to be "Satisfaction Guaranteed", directly beneath the dihedral--which would certainly be a 3 star combination in my opinion

From the bolt anchor just below Sundeck Ledge, this pitch is a full ropelength and might present rope drag issues. From Sundeck Ledge, climb up to a chockstone, mantle over onto a ledge, and continue up the very large and steep left facing corner (double cracks), with fantastic stemming and jamming and plenty of rests. The pitch ends at a coldshut rappel anchor from which two double rope raps will take you to an easy downclimb, or one can scamble to the summit and walk off to the east.


Protection 

Set of friends to #4, set of stoppers



Photos of Sun Dancer Slideshow Add Photo
Grant climbing Sun Dancer (photo from the anchors).
Grant climbing Sun Dancer (photo from the anchors)...
At the chockstone on Sun Dancer.
At the chockstone on Sun Dancer.
Rapping Sun Dancer.
Rapping Sun Dancer.
Tanya Kaplan approaching the top. Sundeck Ledge can be seen below.
Tanya Kaplan approaching the top. Sundeck Ledge ca...
Comments on Sun Dancer Add Comment
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By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 18, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fantastic route - one of the best pitches that I've climbed. Charles' comments are right on. Once you climb over the chockstone, you're committed to the route. I thought that the crux was located about 20 or 30 feet above the start of the crack. We also used double ropes, which significantly reduced the rope drag. If using a single rope, bring lots of slings. Great pro, great rock, and great climbing.

By Chase Roskos
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I really loved this pitch. It seems like it has every type of climbing. Hands, fingers, fists, face, OW, chimney, plus some good exposure. If you're at the Sundeck already keep going, you'll love it.