Sun Cave Direct was one of the first lead routes established in the Eastern canyon. Two hundred feet right of Wendell Spire is an open cave that gets remarkable South/West sun most of the day. Coming off the right side of the cave are two routes that, although converging on the same anchor, are distinct enough in character to merit separate entry. Sun Cave Direct is the left of the two and it runs up on good pockets and large cobbles to a convergence with Sun Cave Right just before a final bulge that will be taken on thin cobbles.
This is a good, pumpy route and different enough from anything at the Spire itself to be worth the burn. Watch the cobbles. With as little traffic as these routes see, there is no telling how well things have held together.
Seven draws and a rope.
|By kevin jenkins|
Sep 8, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
[Consistently] good climbing. allows for fluid motion throughout the climb if you do some good route planning. i'd advise a bit of tape to strengthen the finger tendons, but otherwise, superb in all measurable ways...happy climbing!