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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Echo Summit
> Echo Lakes
> Old Peculiar
Sun and Steel
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Old Peculiar
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Freon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hanus Anus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Knee On T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Offwidth Their Heads T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Old Peculiar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sayonara T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sun and Steel T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Yodeler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Dave and Mike Hatchett and Rick Lovelace |
| Page Views: | 1,380 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Oct 17, 2003 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Sun and Steel is a good granite face climb. Most of the climbing is less than vertical, but a couple small roofs and a short vertical section near the top make it memorable.
Begin just left of Off-Width Their Heads (the odvious off-width crack) and work through the foot-less start to a tricky face that finally leads to the crux roof. After pulling the roof, there's about 15 feet of 5.8 or 9 crack climbing. After the crack you're left with a steep face before the climbing lets off as you gain the anchors.
In my opinion this route should be called 'Off With Their Shins' because messing up on the crux roof is likely to cause some bleeding in your shins... believe me.
Begin just left of Off-Width Their Heads (the odvious off-width crack) and work through the foot-less start to a tricky face that finally leads to the crux roof. After pulling the roof, there's about 15 feet of 5.8 or 9 crack climbing. After the crack you're left with a steep face before the climbing lets off as you gain the anchors.
In my opinion this route should be called 'Off With Their Shins' because messing up on the crux roof is likely to cause some bleeding in your shins... believe me.
Protection
4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It would be wise to bring some nuts for the crack between the second and third bolts. Failure to do so gives this climb a serious rating, though this runout section isn't nearly as difficult as the rest of the climb.
For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish.
For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish.
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