This is an exciting route on good rock with a cool position.
Sunlight, falling on your steel,
Death in life is your ideal,
Life is like a wheel - rolling on and on!
Sun & Steel, Iron Maiden
Pitch 1: Start just left of the obvious crack of Where Vultures Dare below an obvious bolt line w/yellow hangers and just right of a large roof 30 up. Pull a devious crux and climb past 7 bolts (pumpy) until a thin crack comes into play. Follow the crack to a 3 bolt anchor on a marginal stance. 5.10c, 100.
Pitch 2: Climb to the left off the anchor and follow bolts on a nicely exposed arκte to a ledge (The Vultures Nest) with a 3 bolt belay. 5.9, 100.
Pitch 3: Climb up the steep, wide crack to the left of the anchor. Make an exposed move out of the crack to the left below a roof. Pull past the roof on its left side and follow bolts and gear placements up a steep face. Belay on a blocky ledge from a 2 bolt anchor. An intimidating pitch. 5.10d, 100.
Pitch 3 Variation: Beer Mule
Pitch 4: Begin 10 left of the anchor at a bolt and climb up passing more bolts on a steep face heading for the right side of a large roof. Pass the roof and perform several insecure layback/sidepull moves up to a ledge . Belay from 2 bolts. 5.11b/c, 90.
Single rack to a #3 Camalot, many bolts.
60 Meter Rope.
Rappel the route
By Kurt Howes
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great fun route on good rock and awsome views. I thought the first 3 pitches were a titch harder than stated grades and the fourth a titch easier (5.11-). Placed once piece of pro on P2 (a light rack suffices), and p4 is all bolts. Did the 10.d on top rope and found it as good as the 10a variation for P3. I'd really like to know some details on the other existing routes on this wall; please. Plenty of cairns to guide your way up. No mosquitos up there on June 29th, no snow crossings, no people, and I was in my puffy. Thanks for the route equipping.
By Daniel Winder
Jul 5, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
With a little back cleaning pitches 1 and 2 are easily linked without drag. We placed 1 piece on pitch 1 and a couple on 3. Nothing larger than a red camalot was needed.