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Sumo Greatness Slab
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Sumo Greatness 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: spring & fall
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Feb 7, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Sumo Greatness - above the bulge

Description 

This little gem is about 100' long and has a grand total of 3 bolts. A fall before clipping the second bolt will likely result in injuries. A fall above the 3rd has resulted in a broken nose for one local climber.


Location 

The leftmost route.


Protection 

3 bolts



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By Ron Graham
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

Slabba dabba must-do! Only by top-rope, though, unless you want to add some protection points between the current bolt placements by hanging biners on long draws from the existing bolts that create interim protection points. Even if you're awesome at slab climbing, you'll find that the slab here is covered in a coating of dusty sand that makes it very, very slippery. Without extra protection, a slip resulting in an injury is pretty likely. I thought the coating of sand on this route made it tougher than the 5.10a water streak slab climb at the Tuna & Chips wall.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 26, 2009

I once caught a guy who fell just before the second clip. He just barely touched the ground before the rope caught him. He was spooked but not hurt. I foolishly then went up and led the thing. This was in 1987 I believe. A fun and exciting little climb.

By Danny Meyers
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 26, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

This route originally had two bolts as well as a fixed Knife Blade placed on the lead by the FA party for pro. My climbing partner did take a fall above the second bolt (but, to her defense, she hadn't climbed for about six months previous) and did break her nose. The fixed knife blade before the first bolt has been removed, but you might be able to place a small RP in that same placement. If you think you've finished the route once you've reached the two bolt anchor, keep in mind that it didn't exist for many years after the route was done (and repeated by many). After clipping the second bolt, the tree on the ledge above the route was the original finish. The crux seems to be about ten or twelve feet above the second bolt....

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jun 26, 2010

The first bolt on this is sticking about a 1/2" out of the rock.

By ntableman
Nov 24, 2012

We tried this route today and it is not marked as R in the guidebook and as noted should be. The available pro before the first bolt would likely result in ground fall if not very close. The move from bolt 1 to 2 would likely result in hitting the bulge below the first bolt. All-in-all, I would say save your time for another route!

By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

Heady little climb. Moves are very delicate. A true slab climb.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

TR Soloed this today....flake/hold at one of the bolts, first one perhaps, feels like it's gonna go. Would be quite the heady lead. Awesome Tuolumne training!