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Summit Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Future Shock T 
King Thistle T 
Open Book, The T 
Triple Overhangs T 
Undone Book, The T 
Vertical Smile T 
Wonderette, The T 
Wonderwall T 

Summit Wall  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Vince Romney on May 19, 2004
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The Summit Wall is the highest rock in the cirque, with the summit reaching to 11,253' and it is the most obvious destination for cirque climbers. Unless someone has been creative recently, five routes ascend this formation ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.10a, including one aid route at 5.9 A3. The rock is classic alpine granite, with some granularity that can make early-season climbing a bit spicy, but very solid nonetheless. As with all alpine environments, helmets are a good option as rock fall is possible, and (the bigger risk) hikers who reach the summit from the backside are prone to send the occasional projectile into the void. The Falcon guide describes this as some of the finest granite in the Wasatch, representing the "whole spectrum of climbing repertoire-from stems, to jams, to bold faces". It might be good for them to add that roofs are also significant elements to a couple of the climbs as well (and crux elements at that).

Getting There 

The approach from the meadow is fairly straightforward. Hike up the snow-field (or scree if late season) towards the huge chimney that splits the triangular north and more rectangular south sections of the cirque. As you begin to approach the chimney, work left onto the shelf at the base of the upper section of the formation. This is the area where the pines have established themselves, below the climbs but above the blocky section that meets the meadow. All the climbs begin from this shelf.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Summit Wall:
The Open Book   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
The Undone Book   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 5 pitches, 580'   
Vertical Smile   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Grade II   
Triple Overhangs   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Browse More Classics in Summit Wall

Featured Route For Summit Wall
The Wonderwall follows--approximately--the red lin...

Wonderwall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Summit Wall
Established during the year of my birth, the Wonderwall is the strikingly obvious line that avoids the Summit Wall's lower-angle, patina faces and--instead--tackles the most prominent of the steeper, white faces characteristic of the formation's more southerly aspects. A tremendous and a visionary achievement, the Wonderwall combines quality stone and--perhaps--some of the most exposed positions in the cirque with, at times, "heads up" technical climbing, all in a remote setting. For those in ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Summit Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Summit Wall: Lone Peak Cirque
Summit Wall: Lone Peak Cirque
eric atwell appreciating the view after topping ou...
eric atwell appreciating the view after topping ou...
The Summit Walls
BETA PHOTO: The Summit Walls
N. Summit Wall Beta
BETA PHOTO: N. Summit Wall Beta
N. Summit Wall
BETA PHOTO: N. Summit Wall
General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
BETA PHOTO: General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
Summit Wall
BETA PHOTO: Summit Wall
the summit
the summit
A panoramic view eastward from the summit of Lone ...
A panoramic view eastward from the summit of Lone ...
open book 5.7 nice sunrise with good friends, grea...
open book 5.7 nice sunrise with good friends, grea...

Comments on Summit Wall Add Comment
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By Derek West Newman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 20, 2015
Best beta for Summit Wall's Triple Overhangs, Vert...
Best beta for Summit Wall's Triple Overhangs, Vertical Smile, Vertical Overhangs: rope up, rack up, and climb up the base of the Summit. Sometimes you'll climb through Vertical Smile's smile, and other times you'll head up Triple Overhangs. It seems like you'll come across crux moves no harder than 5.10 regardless of where you go. Just watch for choss and runouts, and you should have a smile when you reach the summit.
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