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Summit Cliff (The Highlands)

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Summit Cliff (The Highlands) 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 18, 2009
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Far from the crowds, Summit Cliff has a lot of cli...

Description 

Summit Cliff is a huge chunk of schist high up Rattlesnake mountain in the north west area of the Rumney crags. About 200 feet tall and hosting over a dozen routes, its a great place to shake off the crowds.

Much of the rock here is clean, high quality stuff with interesting, demanding and sometimes quite long routes. As you approve the crags via the gully between Yellowknife Buttress and Prudential the first routes you see are on a toe of rock that is about vertical. The right hand route Three Bump Dumper 5.11a is super good, pumpy and a bit commiting in parts. There are a few more climbs up to the left but the majority of the climbing is up the main gully to the right. Routes from 10a to 12a dominate but there is a fun 5.7 as well.

The coolest climb I've done at Summit is Path of the Righteous a 16 bolt 5.10b that might be one of the best 5.10s at Rumney. There are a couple routes that require one to scramble up a slippery green slab/gully to access at a bolted anchor. Two of these routes are hard open projects just waiting for a lucky climber to clean up. While the Summit Cliff approach might scare most away, those with an adventurous nature might enjoy checking out this gem which seems hidden regardless of the fact that you can see it as clear as day from Route 25.


Getting There 

Follow directions to Prudential or Yellowknife Buttress then find the gully between them and thrash your way up the fixed rope to the base of the lowest part of the cliff.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',6],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Summit Cliff (The Highlands):
Where the Wild Things Are   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport   
Path of the Righteous   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)

Featured Route For Summit Cliff (The Highlands)
chloe on the most fun part of the route... the righteous traverse

Path of the Righteous 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  NH : Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands...
Righteous, get it, it trends right. hahaha.anyway...Fantastic! long climb, sustained 5.9ish climbing with a few tricky crux moves that will make you work for 5.10b. When you finally decide to hike up to this crag bring 18 draws so you and all of your partners can do this route!Climb the left facing corner, crimps on the face crack in the corner. Continue up moderate rock to a steep puzzling corner. Work it out and it will treat you well (first crux). After the first crux the route jogs right in ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Summit Cliff (The Highlands) Slideshow Add Photo
Finally got inspired to add a map of the Summit Cliff. I only put in the routes that have names in the guide book. There are many mystery bolt lines and projects including a few upper pitches and 2 lines to the right of Karmic Realignment that are unfinished and or unclimbed.
BETA PHOTO: Finally got inspired to add a map of the Summit Cl...
summit... awesome
summit... awesome
jared looking way down off of summit crag in to the gully... note the anchors by his right hand... they are the anchors for Northern Lights 5.11a
jared looking way down off of summit crag in to th...
Summit Cliff. View from lower in the dirty gully.
BETA PHOTO: Summit Cliff. View from lower in the dirty gully.
Comments on Summit Cliff (The Highlands) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 29, 2014
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 24, 2009

The Summit Cliff aka The Highlands - There are some great routes up here along with a few projects and more potential. Some of the routes may need a bit of cleaning, as they were not in the old book so have not had much traffic since they went in.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 23, 2010

drat! closed for nesting season i was just startingto explore this place... oh well i bet it will still be there in the fall...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 6, 2010

I have two projects all the way up at the top of the gully, that anyone is very welcome to go for when the birds are out of there. They are potentially great routes, but unfortunately it is a bit nasty to get to them. They are to the right of Cosmic Realignment and can be approached by an easy bolted dirty slab. At one point I had the slab cleaned off, but its location makes it grow back and get filthy in no time.
The right hand project is all bolted and goes at about 12d. I linked it on self belayed TR , but never got back to lead it. One clip is a bit difficult, but manageable. The original clipping hold blew off. It is a long steep and pumpy route. If it was lower down the hill and not in such an odd location, it would be popular I am sure.
The one to the left, next to Cosmic was not completely bolted and will need more cleaning. I think most of the bolts are in and it does have an anchor. I think it will end up as some kind of hard 12 also.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 3, 2010

i got word from Chris Martin of NH Audubon that all the cliffs are open for the rest of 2010! enjoy!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 13, 2010

While you are up there, check out the Buddha Cave. It is at the top of the main gully, where The Gospel .. starts. Walk in and you can chimney up and come out on a great ledge with a big birch like Buddha's banyan tree. Just hope the big blocks you are chimneying through don't shift or you will be seeing your maker very quickly.

Need it be said, don't relieve yourself in this area. If you must pee, go way down the gully and even further, out of the gully if you have to crap and bury the results.

By twellman
Aug 15, 2012

That left-angling chimney looks pretty long and wild. Has anyone climbed it? Is it climbable, or full of muck?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2012

That's Giant's Chimney. Andy Tuttle climbed it, but he is crazy :). It would be great if it was retroed, but is pretty sketchy as it is; bad gear, run-out, dirty and often wet. With some bolts and cleaned it would be a 3+ star 5.9, very dramatic. He probably would be all right with it being retroed, but somebody should check with Andy first. Stainless glue-ins would be the way to go.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2012

I took a closer look at it the other day than i had in the past and that chimney looks gnarly! the right wall looked very mossy but the other wall was more clean and featured... looked like back against the moss and feet on the rock kinda thing... VERY intimidating... i saw at least one pin and it looked pretty rusty... i really want to climb it but i dont think i would do it ground up at this point... i agree, safer gear (bolts) and this thing would be priceless! major props to andy for the style he did it in!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 17, 2012

I replaced the rope up the gully today the old one was rotting through...

By S. Neoh
Sep 23, 2013

Will this crag be OK to climb at late Oct / early Nov? Does it get afternoon Sun then? How's the wind chill effect up here?

By ward smith
Oct 8, 2013

Soon, I just did Where the Wild Things Are on Saturday. I think that the crag would be great in cold, sunny weather, but better in the morning as it faces southeast. Just get there early, it is a short hike lol. We hiked in by Northwest Territories to Prudental, left a buch of stuff there and went up the slippery gully via fixed rope with lighter packs. Wild Things Are is a great warm-up, and Path of the Righteous (10) starts in the same place and is also good. Then definitely do Three Bump Dumper (11a).

Ward

Steve Johnson starting up "Where the Wild Things Are" (7).
Steve Johnson starting up "Where the Wild Things Are" (7).


Steve Johnson pulling around onto the slab on "Where the Wild Things Are"
Steve Johnson pulling around onto the slab on "Where the Wild Things Are"

By S. Neoh
Oct 9, 2013

Thanks for the info, Ward. Much appreciated.

By ward smith
Apr 29, 2014

As of this week, the Summit Cliff is closed due to peregrine falcons.