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Summertime Crags for the Visitor -

Original Post
jason-T · · Naples, FL · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 20

Hey, which are the best shady summer crags in Tennessee (sport, bouldering, or trad) for climbing during August? Other than midnight hours, I’m seeking any North facing cliffs, time of day windows, tree shielded boulders, and overhung caves to make a ride up from south Florida worth the trip. I am desperate for some real climbing and the gear deserves it. THANKS!

Kyle Harris · · Antioch, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 2,539

Sunset park, Chattanooga mostly trad though

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

Trad @ Sunset park stays shady until @ noon-1. Parking is minimal, obey the laws or get a ticket.

jason-T · · Naples, FL · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 20

Beggars can't be choosers. So thanks y'all. Appreciate the specifics too.
Crazy that there are no summer haunts beyond Susnset Park. Anyone explain why no cliffs face north? Bizarro.
So Rocktown in Georgia is a no go too?
What do y'all do in the summer??!!

zekem · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 70

Just accept the heat!

Just kidding. There are others that are shady and such. Lilly bluff out at Obed seems to be a popular spot to stay in the shade.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Try climbing at higher elevation. North Carolina has plenty of cliffs over 4000' trad, sport, and boulder.

It is a good time to give climbing a break and cross-train if you are local. There is a lot of evidence that only climbing outside doesn't help you send your projects. I tend to run more, gym train, and scout new projects. Then you are ready for when the conditions get good in October. If you expect poor conditions, possibly getting rained on, and chigger bites... you won't be disappointed.

jason-T · · Naples, FL · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 20

Heat shmeat. Sack up! Good to hear about Obed and prime hours at Sunrise.
Living in SoFlo (sadly), should be able to suck it up and handle the heat so not worried about dying from heat stroke. Mostly sun and grip concerns.

How's the texture of the sandstone in Tennessee, shredder Hueco Tanks or micro Fontainbleu style? Brutal grain could help although tough on these ocean pruned tips.

Also, how long does it usually take to dry out after a storm during the summer?

...Looking forward to some grits!

jason-T · · Naples, FL · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 20
TomCaldwell wrote:...Then you are ready for when the conditions get good in October. If you expect poor conditions, possibly getting rained on, and chigger bites... you won't be disappointed.
Werd up! Looking forward to the Fall and Winter but gotta take advantage of time off now. Not gonna make it north of Tennessee or would hit the higher elevations of the Smokies.
Anything beats South Florida's crags...
Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
jason-T wrote: Werd up! Looking forward to the Fall and Winter but gotta take advantage of time off now. Not gonna make it north of Tennessee or would hit the higher elevations of the Smokies. Anything beats South Florida's crags...
North Carolina and the Smokies are east Tenn. The Smokies are terrible this time of year. It rains even more than Pisgah (hard to believe). I am suggesting the Nantahala and Pisgah forests. It is same latitude as Tenn. So unless you are coming from the panhandle, it might be a similar driving distance. Your best bet for closeness and decent conditions is probably Little River Canyon, AL.
paul.adams.3 · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 45

Ive climbed a few times in rocktown during the summer on my way down to tallahassee. Not the best conditions, but it's shady enough to climb. You can also chase shade at foster falls or lily bluff, little clear, north clear, and y-12 walls at the obed. I climbed the north side of looking glass in july and it ws fairly pleasant.

Brian Goldman · · Atlanta, Ga · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 40

Deep Creek just north of Chattanooga is pretty shady although from what I've seen it tends to seep pretty badly. Really awesome and expansive sport climbing area

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
Brian Goldman wrote:Deep Creek just north of Chattanooga is pretty shady although from what I've seen it tends to seep pretty badly. Really awesome and expansive sport climbing area
It is mostly dry this time of year, it seeps in the winter months. The problem down there is the bugs and humidity. It does stay shaded late in the day. A good option combined with mornings at Sunset.
jason-T · · Naples, FL · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 20

Good stuff throughout this thread. Definitely what I was seeking. Appreciate the local knowledge!!

jason-T · · Naples, FL · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 20

Wish I could change the title of this topic to be "Summertime Crags in Tennessee and Georgia - Beat the Heat" since this has become a valuable resource to climbers targeting these specific states. ...The south has TONS of climbing and I appreciate you all tailoring it to my northbound trip from South Florida into Tennessee.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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