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Summersville Lake

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Circus Wall 
Coliseum, The 
DC Memorial Boulder 
Gun Wall 
Long Wall, The 
Narcissus Cave 
Orange Oswald Wall 
Pirate's Cove 
Satisfaction Wall, The 

Summersville Lake  


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Location: 38.236, -80.8553 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,665
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 27, 2013  with updates from Antonio Caligiuri
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You & This Area
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Nuria warming up on another hot summer day.

Description 

Summersville Lake is not in the NRG Proper, but due to it's proximity it is considered a part of the area. It is home to a host of high quality single-pitch sport routes along its northern shore. Ratings range from 5.easy (such as at the Orange Oswald Wall) to 5.14 (in the Coliseum), and there are even a pair of outrageous projects yet to be done, as well as much untouched cliffline that is either inaccessible or would require a boat. Water levels in the lake vary seasonally, which in turn affects the accessibility of certain routes. During warm months, deep water soloing can be a great relief from oppressive summer heat.

Getting There 

Follow Rte. 19 north out of Fayetteville for about 20 miles, almost reaching the town of Summersville. After crossing the obvious Gauley River bridge, park in a large lot on the east (right) side of the road. Follow a wide trail east for a ways until it descends down TO THE LEFT OF THE MAIN TRAIL, crosses a stream NEAR an old bridge, and then heads back up again. Shortly thereafter head right into the woods at THE SECOND well-marked trail (THE FIRST RIGHT WILL LEAD YOU DOWN TO PIRATE'S COVE AREA). Follow this trail past a few branches until it descends steeply by a stream and small waterfall. There is a ladder here to facilitate the scrambling. This will deposit you very near the DC Memorial Boulder. Head climber's left along the cliff band to access the Perot Wall and the Coliseum, or right along the cliff to the Long Wall, Narcissus Cave, and Orange Oswald Wall. Pirates' Cove, a great area that is only accessible during low water, can be reached via a separate trail or by scrambling around from the Colosseum.

The approach includes a 15ft ladder, if you are bringing lassie, plan on lowering it down.

NOTE: IF YOU HAVE A LARGE DOG AND USING THE LADDER IS NOT A VIABLE OPTION, THERE IS AN ALTERNATE APPROACH. INSTEAD OF TAKING THE TRAIL DOWN TO THE STREAM AND LADDER, CONTINUE ALONG THE TRAIL OF RED BLAZES FOR ~10-12 MINUTES UNTIL YOU SEE A HOUSE UP TO YOUR LEFT. AT THIS POINT YOU CAN CUT DOWN TOWARDS THE LAKE WHERE THERE IS A BREAK IN THE CLIFF. THIS DEPOSITS YOU ~5 MINUTES PAST ORANGE OSWALD WALL. WALK TO THE CLIMBER'S LEFT ALONG THE CLIFF UNTIL YOU REACH YOUR DESIRED DESTINATION.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

93 Total Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',13],['5.10',31],['5.11',21],['5.12',15],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Summersville Lake:
Hippie Dreams   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 90'   Orange Oswald Wall
Chunko Goes Bowling   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 90'   Orange Oswald Wall
Orange Oswald   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Orange Oswald Wall
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Orange Oswald Wall
Strong Arming the Little Guy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Orange Oswald Wall
Indian Summer   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   Pirate's Cove
Baby Has a Bolt Gun   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Orange Oswald Wall
Barfing Butterflies   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Orange Oswald Wall
Maximum Overdrive   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Long Wall
Mutiny   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pirate's Cove
Satisfaction Guaranteed   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Satisfaction Wall
Under the Milky Way   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Long Wall
Narcissus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Narcissus Cave
Reckless Abandon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Coliseum
Ly'n and Stealin'   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Circus Wall
Tobacco Road   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   The Coliseum
Apollo Reed   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Coliseum
The Mercy Seat   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Coliseum
Pod   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Coliseum
BC   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Coliseum
Browse More Classics in Summersville Lake

Featured Route For Summersville Lake
Mutiny. Fall, 1999.

Mutiny 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Pirate's Cove
Mutiny is the obvious, razor-sharp overhanging arete at Pirates' Cove -- only accessible during low water. Boulder up to a high first clip, and continue clipping bolts on the right side of the arete, using holds on both sides, to a crux move near the anchors. The climb is often dirty due to high water, but it is classic nonetheless....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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