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Routes in The Sun
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Better Lock Next Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Garden Party AKA Sketch Book T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C1 |
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Halogen Angels T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Solar Flare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Summer Solstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Slothower, Milhaupt |
| Page Views: | 718 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Milhaupt on Jun 20, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
We climbed this route with the intention of reaching the steep crack above the overhanging wall on the right side of the sun. It has some excellent climbing mixed with some bs. For those who like the OW it's a fun outing. Pitch 1: Begin with a lichenous handcrack on the right side of the sun. Move left under the overhang lowdown. Continue straight up on the slab after the crack ends. There is a #2 Camalot placement partway up the slab (essential), and some small cam or nut placements in the crack just right of the giant hanging prow. 100' 5.9s. Pitch 2: 4th or easy 5th class. Scramble up behind the prow and tunnel through to the other side. Traverse across to the base of the steep wide crack (We roped up here). Pitch 3: Jam up to the overhang and crank through the chicken wing crux. The start of the pitch is a little lichenous, but the pro is bomber the whole way. Belay in the crack above. 5.10d 50'. Continue up easy 4th-class slabs until it is possible to walk off right.
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