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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Apr 10, 2012
Pup Tent OS

With warm weather here and summer quickly approaching, I'm trying to devise the best plan for maintaining the gains I've made in the gym all winter throughout the summer. Normally I come out of winter training feeling really strong, and while my climbing improves throughout the summer due to just climbing a lot, I feel like my finger strength actually decreases a bit throughout the season.

This year I'd like to experiment with including an extended HYP/MAX-R cycle throughout the summer to see if I can actually maintain the levels of strength I gained or even continue to increase them. Currently I'm climbing at the 12a/b level and my goal is to redpoint 12d before the end of the year. I'm wondering if it would be beneficial to start a 1-day-a-week hangboard phase for a few weeks and then a 1-day-a-week campus phase in the middle of the summer. My thoughts are that by doing this I will better be able to maintain my winter gains and maybe even get stronger throughout the summer when combined with my regular route climbing and projecting days. My concerns are that doing this will be too much of a training load when combined with my climbing days and that it will actually lead to a decrease in performance and affect my recovery. Normally I climb 4 days a week: 2 full days on the weekends and a few shorter after-work days. Ideally I'd like to fit in these maintenance workouts early in the morning of one of my weekday climbing days and then climb in the afternoon as usual.

Does anyone have any experience doing something like this and how did it work for you? Any ways I can tweak this schedule to maximize both my workouts and climbing days?


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By Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Apr 10, 2012
Bunny pancake

SkiNowWorkLater wrote:
With warm weather here and summer quickly approaching, I'm trying to devise the best plan for maintaining the gains I've made in the gym all winter throughout the summer. Normally I come out of winter training feeling really strong, and while my climbing improves throughout the summer due to just climbing a lot, I feel like my finger strength actually decreases a bit throughout the season. This year I'd like to experiment with including an extended HYP/MAX-R cycle throughout the summer to see if I can actually maintain the levels of strength I gained or even continue to increase them. Currently I'm climbing at the 12a/b level and my goal is to redpoint 12d before the end of the year. I'm wondering if it would be beneficial to start a 1-day-a-week hangboard phase for a few weeks and then a 1-day-a-week campus phase in the middle of the summer. My thoughts are that by doing this I will better be able to maintain my winter gains and maybe even get stronger throughout the summer when combined with my regular route climbing and projecting days. My concerns are that doing this will be too much of a training load when combined with my climbing days and that it will actually lead to a decrease in performance and affect my recovery. Normally I climb 4 days a week: 2 full days on the weekends and a few shorter after-work days. Ideally I'd like to fit in these maintenance workouts early in the morning of one of my weekday climbing days and then climb in the afternoon as usual. Does anyone have any experience doing something like this and how did it work for you? Any ways I can tweak this schedule to maximize both my workouts and climbing days?


I do something similar. I have kids/work/family so I only get to climb outdoors 2 a week sometimes 3. I supplement that with 2 other days of working out. I dont do HYP during the summer though. I mainly focus on str and cmapaus. As my climbing days (routes) usually mimic PE.


Monday: fingerboard. Max hangs 10 secs/ 5 min rest
Tuesday:off
Wed: Climb after work
Thurs:off
Friday: Off if I clmb Sat. Str if I climb on Sun.

Or I will do cmapus on my Monm Fri is training that physiology.

I have to remember though that the most important thing for me is sending in the summer (aka performance) so I never let a work-out trump a day outside. If that means missing a day during the week, I let it go and just tell myself I will be stronger for my outside day.

I run a significant more as well to keep the weight low. I try to hit the Spring around 175-78. And then get down to 170 for peak summer months.


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