Summer in the Cascades or...route ideas?

Looking at spending the summer solely dedicated to Alpine and Mountaineering routes. Was thinking about the Cascades, but would like to hear any other ideas(non international). Also any route ideas and bad ass itineraries. Would prefer a mix of unknown remote routes mixed with some do it just to say you did it routes. Like to start out mild to moderate and escalate from there. Need to find a partner to make it happen so it may be a pipe dream but would love to get some input.

Adam,

Where are you based out of and what is your experience thus far?

Adam,

Your post sounds like "what should I climb and where should I climb"?

You gotta do better (more specific) than that.

Mark
I am out of Northern Utah. I have experience with everything except for Aid. Unless you consider twenty foot top rope belay assisted dyno as aid....

Frank
I guess that is exactly what I am asking. I have three to four months that I can do nothing but climb. Looking for thoughts and suggestions on what and where to climb. Basically go from one climb to the next. So trying to put several climbs that would be in one area and work in a general direction hitting as many climbs as possible on the way. Starting around mid may time frame.

Have you done much mountaineering? Crevasse rescue, ice and snow?

Mark,
Yes to all to include technical ice. No high altitude mountaineering experience though.

Are you mobile for the summer, or do you need to plant your butt in one place and stay put? Mobility could allow you do a tasting menu - Bugaboos, Cascades, eastern Sierra, Wind Rivers, Tetons. Bugs and Winds require a little more commitment to pack in for a duration, while Sierra, Tetons, and Cascades allow a lot of long day or day + night opportunities.

Here's some resources for the Cascades since you call them out:

Selected Climbs in the Cascades Volume 1 and Volume 2 give a good sense of what some of the 'classic' trade routes are in the region, though a few of the routes in the books seldom see repeats. The Supertopo Washington Pass book nicely summarizes the popular rock routes in the Washington Pass region, which is one of the concentrations of quality rock routes that are popular summer objectives.

As far as "adventure" routes or "off-the-beaten-path", you could peruse trip reports of cascadeclimbers.com to get a sense of what are common routes vs what are newly opened routes. If it's first ascents you're after, I suggest first checking the Cascade Alpine Guides Volume I , II , and III (make sure you get the most recent versions) for an encyclopedia of mountains and recorded ascent histories. Seems like new routes frequently are opened with the help of John Scurlock's aerial photography work.

If you're after "adventure" rock routes in the Cascades, my suggestion would be to look into the Gunsight range - it's guarded by a long approach and as such sees relatively infrequent activity. That said I haven't seen anyone say anything but positive stuff about it.

It's shaping up to be a comparatively low-snow year in the Cascades which may alter the timing / access / "in-ness" of snow/ice/mixed routes.

Jared,

Thanks for all the info. I am defiantly mobile. The Gunsight range is defiantly on the list. Sounds like I will be in the Tetons around mid August as well. I'm going to thumb though some if the info you sent and see if I can get something together. I'm leaning toward a few areas with long remote approaches and a mix of setting up at one mountain for a few and do several different routes up that single mountain. Any suggestions there would be great as well. Thanks again for all the info.