Summer Festival  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Hidetaka and Mishiko Suzuki, 1983 Submitted By:  jason seaver on Feb 12, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

John Tormalehto following the Festival. 12-9-06

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb the OJ corner up to the roof and battle out the crack in the right side of the roof. The roof is somewhere around 18 feet long and starts with thin fingers and ends with a crux offwidth section turning the lip. I’ve seen it done a few different ways, so I won’t attempt to give technique beta, but I do suggest checking out the equipment beta.

Location 

This pitch takes the crack out the right side of the Orange Julius roof (the huge, orange triangular roof 60 feet above the ground in the center of the crag).

Protection 

Including cams for the anchor, I would carry a set of wires, a couple thin finger-sized cams, a couple thin-hands-sized cams, two #3 Camalots, one #4 Camalot, two #5 Camalots, and one #3 Bigbro. The Bigbro can take the place of one of the #5 Camalots. After turning the lip, keeping the rope from getting stuck in your gear in the roof is a distinct problem. The solution we found was to use the Bigbro, or one of the big cams, placed upside down at the lip to direct the rope out and around the cams back under the roof. This worked out pretty well for us.
You can belay from cams 30 feet above the lip, then continue with Orange Julius , or you can belay and rap from slings at the end of OJ’s 2nd pitch. One 60 meter rope will get you down from there.