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John Tormalehto following the Festival. 12-9-06
Climb the OJ
corner up to the roof and battle out the crack in the right side of the roof. The roof is somewhere around 18 feet long and starts with thin fingers and ends with a crux offwidth section turning the lip. Iíve seen it done a few different ways, so I wonít attempt to give technique beta, but I do suggest checking out the equipment beta.
This pitch takes the crack out the right side of the Orange Julius
roof (the huge, orange triangular roof 60 feet above the ground in the center of the crag).
Including cams for the anchor, I would carry a set of wires, a couple thin finger-sized cams, a couple thin-hands-sized cams, two #3 Camalots, one #4 Camalot, two #5 Camalots, and one #3 Bigbro. The Bigbro can take the place of one of the #5 Camalots. After turning the lip, keeping the rope from getting stuck in your gear in the roof is a distinct problem. The solution we found was to use the Bigbro, or one of the big cams, placed upside down at the lip to direct the rope out and around the cams back under the roof. This worked out pretty well for us.
You can belay from cams 30 feet above the lip, then continue with Orange Julius
, or you can belay and rap from slings at the end of OJís
2nd pitch. One 60 meter rope will get you down from there.