Sumatra  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Jame Garrett, Tyler Phillips, Franziska Garrett 2005 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Anonymous Coward on Jul 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>> Little Cottonwood Access Update Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner. The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek. Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is just one of the additional fun slab routes added this year to the largely previously ignored Coalpit Buttress.

Coalpit Buttress includes everything between Triangle Wall and Pentapitch area. Approach as for Stiffler's Mom or Pentapitch. Start as for PRECIOUS LOST. This is the next slab to the east of Endless Torment. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.

Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.
Pitch #2: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.
Pitch #3: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.
Pitch #4: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.

One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the pitch #5 of Stifflers Mom or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of PRECIOUS LOST.

Protection 

QDs and a good assortment of nuts, TCUs, and cams to #3