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Suicide Rock 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Lat, Long: 33.771, -116.696 Map
Page Views: 389,145. Good page? (3 likes)   
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006

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Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the...

General Description 

Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.

Please note this is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

The area is well known for it's quality, albeit runout, slab and face climbing and is home to numerous routes from 5.6 to 5.13 with most being in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Mickey Mantle (5.8 R), Serpentine (5.9), Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R), Hair Lip (5.10a), Revelation (5.10a), Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R), Sundance (5.10b), Godzilla's Return (5.10d R), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), The Man That Fell to Earth (5.11a), Rebolting Development (5.11b R), Disco Jesus (5.11b), New Generation (5.11c), Moondance (5.11c), Double Exposure Direct (5.12a R), Burning Down the House (5.12b R), Caliente (5.12c), Ishi (5.12d) and Someone You're Not (5.13a).

Cracks are also in abundance here and although some of the easier ones are a bit grungy there are some fantastic cracks here ranging from 5.1 to 5.12+ with the majority in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Spring Cleaning (5.6), The Hernia (5.8), The Guillotine (5.8), Flower of High Rank (5.9), Munge Dihedral (5.10a), Hot Buttered Rump (5.10a), Johnny Quest (5.10a), Flakes of Wrath (5.10c R), Miscalculation (5.10c), Etude (5.11a), Insomnia (5.11b), The Drain Pipe (5.11b), Chisholm Trail (5.11b/c), Paisano Overhang (5.12c) and The Pirate (5.12d).


Getting There 

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right). Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved). Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box. After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the The Weeping Wall. The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.


The Rock 

The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Suicide Rock:
Mickey Mantle   5.8 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si...
Serpentine   5.9-     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   The Weeping Wall
Flower of High Rank   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Northeast Buttress
Ten Karat Gold   5.10a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   The Weeping Wall
Sundike   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Hair Lip   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Right of the Escalator
Sundance   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Johnny Quest   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Northeast Buttress
Rebolting Development   5.11a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet   Rebolting Face
Iron Cross   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Valhalla   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Etude   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Northeast Buttress
Disco Jesus   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   South Face
Insomnia   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Season's End   5.11c     Trad, 3 pitches, 290 feet   Rebolting Face
New Generation   5.11c     Trad, 3 pitches, 280 feet   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Moondance   5.11c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Paisano Overhang   5.12c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Paisano Pinnacle
The Pirate   5.12d     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Someone You're Not   5.13a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face Left Side
Browse More Classics in Suicide Rock

Featured Route For Suicide Rock
Ivan Couch drilling on the first ascent, pitch 1.

Valhalla 5.11a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side
This ultra-classic tour of the Sunshine Face is perhaps the best face climb of it's grade at the rock, and long ago an ascent was a rite of passage that gained you entry into the fabled Stonemasters.Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, and locate the start which lies just right of the pine tree.P1) Climb past three bolts (5.11a) to the right side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt belay. P2) Traverse straight right, clip a bolt a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Suicide Rock Slideshow Add Photo
My first time on the climb, gnarly. Photo by Tony Grice.

My first time on the climb, gnarly. Photo by Tony...

Photo of Suicide from Devil's Slide trail.

Photo of Suicide from Devil's Slide trail.

Going old school..."most importantly, bring your own bong."

Going old school..."most importantly, bring your o...

View of Tahquitz from roughly above the South Face of Suicide Rock

View of Tahquitz from roughly above the South Face...

The gorgeous slabs of Suicide Rock.

The gorgeous slabs of Suicide Rock.

The roadside sign across from the water tanks marks the beginning of the trail up to Suicide Rock.

BETA PHOTO: The roadside sign across from the water tanks mark...

Suicide Rock

BETA PHOTO: Suicide Rock

Log on the approach trail that you must duck under to reach the base of Suicide. I'm curious about the change all hammered into it.

Log on the approach trail that you must duck under...

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts almost directly opposite this sign which is just past Forest Drive.

BETA PHOTO: The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts almost ...

Shot from Fingertrip. I noticed the climbers above Paisano Pinnacle and thought it gave the rock some perspective.

Shot from Fingertrip. I noticed the climbers above...

photo by: Paul Torella

photo by: Paul Torella

from Devil's slide trail.

from Devil's slide trail.


Comments on Suicide Rock Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 19, 2007

For the first timer, the trail to the rock base can be a bit unclear. From the road sign pictured above to the service road some 200 yards away is nice, with plentiful (but unnecessary) carsonite signs. From here, one hangs a right following the paved road for about a half mile, before turning left. After a carsonite sign or two, one encounters the "end of maintained trail" sign, and a quick steep little section. After this, the trail is somewhat evident, but deteriorates after this. Many windy days this year have left a lot debris (some real big downed trees too) on the forest floor, so the weave on the way up, may not be the same path taken back down. It is this run of the trail that could use the half dozen carsonite signs found below, and a bit of chainsawing.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 27, 2007

Very cold weather yeilds good results when climbing the thin face/slab routes, at least it has for me. Hotter weather increases the routes' difficulty IMHO.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing.

By Jim Dover
From: Temecula, Ca
Oct 3, 2011

Suicide Rock FA list in chronological order (not that anyone but me cares)! If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.

1. Paisano Jam Crack, 5.10a, 2/55 (1955!!!!)
2. Limp Dick, 5.10a, 5/59
3. Munge Dihedral, 5.10a, 1960s?
4. Surprise, 5.8R, 4/66
5. Goliath, 5.7, 6/66
6. David, 5.7R, 6/66
7. Surprise Direct, 5.9, 8/66
8. First Pitch, 5.8, 10/66
9. Captain Hook, 5.8, 10/66
10. The Step Away, 5.8R, 11/66
11. Sundance, 5.10b, 1/67
12. Buttress Chimney, 5.8, 1967?
13. The Pirate, 5.12c/d, 6/67
14. Hesitation, 5.10a, 7/67
15. The Hernia, 5.8, 8/67
16. Sampson, 5.9R, 8/67
17. Flake Out, 5.7, 9/67
18. Piasano Overhang, 5.12c, 1/68
19. Delila, 5.9, 1/68
20. The Breeze, 5.10a, 2/68
21. Pass Time, 5.9, 3/68
22. Frustration, 5.10a, 3/68
23. Sword of Damocles, 5.9, 3/68
24. Graham Crackers, 5.6, 4/68
25. Hot Buttered Rump, 5.10a, 4/68
26. Piasano Chimney, 5.8, 5/68
27. Axe of God, 5.8, 5/68
28. Flatman Chimney, 5.9, 5/68
29. Tabby Treat, 5.1, 5/68
30. Deception Pillar, 5.9, 7/68
31. Cat’s Cave Inn, 5.8, 9/68
32. Spooky Spike, 5.9, 12/68
33. The Guillotine, 5.8R, 10/69
34. Etude, 5.11a, 11/69

By agd
Jul 6, 2012

As always in southern California, watch out for rattlesnakes. I almost stepped on one that was coiled on the approach to Buttress of Cracks. They are very camo'd.