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Arpa Carpa Cliff
Below Smooth Sole Wall Face
Buttress of Cracks
Le Dent Pinnacle
Right of the Escalator
Smooth Sole Wall
Weeping Wall, The
Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.
The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right). Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved). Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box. After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the The Weeping Wall. The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.
The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.
As of mid-2014 an Adventure Pass is no longer required to park at Humber Park.
235 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Suicide Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Suicide Rock:
The Hernia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100' Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Mickey Mantle 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, 1 pitch, 120' Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si...
Sundance 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300' Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Iron Cross 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 230' Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Insomnia 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100' Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
New Generation 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 280' Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Moondance 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 300' Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Pirate 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, 2 pitches, 170' Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Featured Route For Suicide Rock
Mickey Mantle 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si...
This is perhaps the best route on the Smooth Soul Wall. It has mantles, edges, friction, and a novel traverse, all on excellent rock. With only three bolts and fairly sustained climbing, there are substantial runouts. Rappel 90 feet from a ledge at the end of the route (or continue up with an easy second pitch and walk off). It is in the sun all day....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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