Mountain Project: Climbing Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right). Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved). Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box. After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the The Weeping Wall. The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.

The Rock

The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Suicide Rock:

Mickey Mantle 5.8 R Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si...

Serpentine 5.9- Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet The Weeping Wall

Flower of High Rank 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Northeast Buttress

Ten Karat Gold 5.10a R Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet The Weeping Wall

Sundike 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Hair Lip 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Right of the Escalator

Sundance 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Johnny Quest 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Northeast Buttress

Rebolting Development 5.11a R Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet Rebolting Face

Iron Cross 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Valhalla 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Etude 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Northeast Buttress

Disco Jesus 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet South Face

Insomnia 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...

Season's End 5.11c Trad, 3 pitches, 290 feet Rebolting Face

New Generation 5.11c Trad, 3 pitches, 280 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Moondance 5.11c Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Paisano Overhang 5.12c R Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Paisano Pinnacle

The Pirate 5.12d Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...

Someone You're Not 5.13a Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face Left Side

Featured Route For Suicide Rock

Completing the crux during the FA. Photo: Kevin Powell

Someone You're Not 5.13a CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face Left Side

This route is on superb rock with great climbing, and has a tricky and powerful crux. The headwall of the route is unusually steep rock for Suicide.Pitch 1: Climb one of, Paisano Chimney, Clockwork Orange, or Euphoria.Pitch 2: Follow the bolts directly across from the ledge. Slightly runout slab climbing (10c) leads past 3 bolts to the crux headwall that is the right side of the Caliente intrusion. Steep reachy edging leads past two bolts (11c) to the crux bolt at the top of the intrusion (1...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Suicide Rock

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My first time on the climb, gnarly. Photo by Tony...	Photo of Suicide from Devil's Slide trail.	Going old school..."most importantly, bring your o...
View of Tahquitz from roughly above the South Face...	The gorgeous slabs of Suicide Rock.	BETA PHOTO: The roadside sign across from the water tanks mark...
BETA PHOTO: Suicide Rock	Log on the approach trail that you must duck under...	BETA PHOTO: The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts almost ...
Shot from Fingertrip. I noticed the climbers above...	photo by: Paul Torella	from Devil's slide trail.

Comments on Suicide Rock

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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 19, 2007

For the first timer, the trail to the rock base can be a bit unclear. From the road sign pictured above to the service road some 200 yards away is nice, with plentiful (but unnecessary) carsonite signs. From here, one hangs a right following the paved road for about a half mile, before turning left. After a carsonite sign or two, one encounters the "end of maintained trail" sign, and a quick steep little section. After this, the trail is somewhat evident, but deteriorates after this. Many windy days this year have left a lot debris (some real big downed trees too) on the forest floor, so the weave on the way up, may not be the same path taken back down. It is this run of the trail that could use the half dozen carsonite signs found below, and a bit of chainsawing.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 27, 2007

Very cold weather yeilds good results when climbing the thin face/slab routes, at least it has for me. Hotter weather increases the routes' difficulty IMHO.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing.

By Jim Dover
From: Temecula, Ca
Oct 3, 2011

Suicide Rock FA list in chronological order (not that anyone but me cares)! If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.

1. Paisano Jam Crack, 5.10a, 2/55 (1955!!!!)
2. Limp Dick, 5.10a, 5/59
3. Munge Dihedral, 5.10a, 1960s?
4. Surprise, 5.8R, 4/66
5. Goliath, 5.7, 6/66
6. David, 5.7R, 6/66
7. Surprise Direct, 5.9, 8/66
8. First Pitch, 5.8, 10/66
9. Captain Hook, 5.8, 10/66
10. The Step Away, 5.8R, 11/66
11. Sundance, 5.10b, 1/67
12. Buttress Chimney, 5.8, 1967?
13. The Pirate, 5.12c/d, 6/67
14. Hesitation, 5.10a, 7/67
15. The Hernia, 5.8, 8/67
16. Sampson, 5.9R, 8/67
17. Flake Out, 5.7, 9/67
18. Piasano Overhang, 5.12c, 1/68
19. Delila, 5.9, 1/68
20. The Breeze, 5.10a, 2/68
21. Pass Time, 5.9, 3/68
22. Frustration, 5.10a, 3/68
23. Sword of Damocles, 5.9, 3/68
24. Graham Crackers, 5.6, 4/68
25. Hot Buttered Rump, 5.10a, 4/68
26. Piasano Chimney, 5.8, 5/68
27. Axe of God, 5.8, 5/68
28. Flatman Chimney, 5.9, 5/68
29. Tabby Treat, 5.1, 5/68
30. Deception Pillar, 5.9, 7/68
31. Cat�s Cave Inn, 5.8, 9/68
32. Spooky Spike, 5.9, 12/68
33. The Guillotine, 5.8R, 10/69
34. Etude, 5.11a, 11/69

By agd
Jul 6, 2012

As always in southern California, watch out for rattlesnakes. I almost stepped on one that was coiled on the approach to Buttress of Cracks. They are very camo'd.

Suicide Rock

General Description

Getting There

The Rock

The Classics

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