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Suicide Blonde 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Drew Bedford
Page Views: 5,100
Submitted By: veritus on Jun 30, 2006
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Overhung and short. Jugs most of the way up. Moves surrounding the last bolt are slightly desperate.


Location 

Left-most line on the west-facing Hard Rock wall.


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Suicide Blonde Slideshow Add Photo
Photo of Belay area and route
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Belay area and route
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2013
By D. Durrant
Oct 11, 2007

Wow, how many people have not gotten off the ground on this one. Can a route be polished to a new letter grade? If the bottom gives you fits, try Juggernaut.

By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 21, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

i noticed a bolt line above suicide blonde that looked good! Does anybody know what the route is named or rated ??

By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Mar 7, 2008

I think you're referring to Beehive. It's like a .12b or something. Here is a photo of the route I think you're referring to : www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/american_fork_c>>>

By McRae Williams
May 13, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

My buddy led this route and then I top roped it. I fell at the crux, but then sent it. I want to work it on lead. The Longer moves with positive holds really got me stoked. Hope to redpoint soon.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 3, 2008

Hardest 5.11b I've ever tried. VERY polished. I agree with D. Durrant on maybe it's time to bump the grade up. Took several tries and I was still pumped out of my brains when I finally did it. "Eight to Eleven" is very easy by comparison.

By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Sep 3, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

classic route. i didnt think the polish made it much harder at all, when compared to baghdad at the division wall i would say it falls right in the middle of the grade.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I think it's correct at .11b. The start has a crappy foot or two, but this is AF after all. Uninspiring black foot nubbins abound, and the climbs are generally solid at their grade. I thought juggernaut seemed harder for what it's worth. (From the one time I've been on each route.)

By McRae Williams
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Finally went back for the redpoint on this one. Got it after working out a few moves. Excellent route.

By Bad Sock Puppet
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is an AF classic. I didn't feel that Suicide Blonde was all that hard, and in fact the feet didn't feel as polished as I expected from all the comments. A tough onsight. The trick to Suicide Blonde is being able to distinguish the good holds for the overabundance of pockets and crimps on the route. Once you've dialed your sequence than it's ridiculously easy.

By Cameron Card
From: American Fork, Ut
Jun 1, 2009

yeah I defiantly agree with bad sock p. I would say the rating went down after learning the right beta. defiantly a classic!

By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

All my friends are shorter and they always stacked a rock boost on the ground to get to the 1st jug. I flashed Juggernaut, but Suicide Blonde took me about a dozen tries. I kept falling after the steep part on the easier face above because I was so pumped or so glad to be done with the boulder problem below that I lost my concentration.

By John Rosner
From: Hopkins, MN
Jul 29, 2011

Onsighted this with a a jump start. It is polished which makes a difference, however I think which holds I chose and which I didn't made it sendable the first time. I could see choosing some of the other chalked up holds and loosing it. I agree with whoever said that this was harder than eight to eleven. With all the polish, 8 to 11 is a better climb. (just skip going to the 3rd rusty chains)

By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Sep 22, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Great route!

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Apr 11, 2012

The second pitch is 12a or b and excellent. It's not Beehive's second pitch.

By bheller
From: SL UT
May 29, 2012

Second pitch is Dreadlocks- 12c

By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Sep 29, 2012

probably the most fun I've had to start a route

By Jballz
From: Cincy oh
Nov 6, 2012

Super soft. Again giant holds with good feet. I've climbed 10b's that are harder than this.

By TLEE
From: Salt Lake City
May 23, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is one of the best routs ive been on. I had to stack a couple rocks to reach the starting holds, but after that its a great series of solid holds and moves.