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Suicidal Society
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 0.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Sun Devil Wall
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Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Icarus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Persephone's Parole T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Suntoucher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Marc Beverly and John Kear |
| Page Views: | 1,231 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Feb 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Lured by the three star grade and it's close proximity to where we were, I decided to try this chosspile.
Start up on an easy slab to reach the first bolt, then commit to the overhang. None of the holds are straight down here, so commit to laybacking, and stemming to make upward progress. This section felt pretty hard for 11c, but it may have been the chossy dirty rock.
Unfortunately or maybe fortunately the route seemed to end after the 4th bolt. There was a chopped 5th bolt ahead, and a 6th bolt with a bail biner on it. Attempting to reach the 6th bolt, a lot of large pieces of loose rock were encountered on still pretty difficult ground, with a potential large fall awaiting. So I bailed from the 4th bolt. Looking at this from the ground, I couldn't see any bolts past the sixth bolt, and no sign of a second pitch. It did look like there were a set of anchors that could have been the end of the first pitch.
I normally don't post routes I haven't sent, but if anyone has any more information on this route, please post up, otherwise stay off of this unfinished chosspile.
With enough cleaning this could probably be a 1-2 star route.
Start up on an easy slab to reach the first bolt, then commit to the overhang. None of the holds are straight down here, so commit to laybacking, and stemming to make upward progress. This section felt pretty hard for 11c, but it may have been the chossy dirty rock.
Unfortunately or maybe fortunately the route seemed to end after the 4th bolt. There was a chopped 5th bolt ahead, and a 6th bolt with a bail biner on it. Attempting to reach the 6th bolt, a lot of large pieces of loose rock were encountered on still pretty difficult ground, with a potential large fall awaiting. So I bailed from the 4th bolt. Looking at this from the ground, I couldn't see any bolts past the sixth bolt, and no sign of a second pitch. It did look like there were a set of anchors that could have been the end of the first pitch.
I normally don't post routes I haven't sent, but if anyone has any more information on this route, please post up, otherwise stay off of this unfinished chosspile.
With enough cleaning this could probably be a 1-2 star route.
Location
Far right side of Solar Cave, furthest route to the right. Starts about 10 feet left of the start for "Sundevil".
Photos
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