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Sun Devil Wall
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Suicidal Society 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Marc Beverly and John Kear
Page Views: 453
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Feb 25, 2009

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Description 

Lured by the three star grade and it's close proximity to where we were, I decided to try this chosspile.

Start up on an easy slab to reach the first bolt, then commit to the overhang. None of the holds are straight down here, so commit to laybacking, and stemming to make upward progress. This section felt pretty hard for 11c, but it may have been the chossy dirty rock.

Unfortunately or maybe fortunately the route seemed to end after the 4th bolt. There was a chopped 5th bolt ahead, and a 6th bolt with a bail biner on it. Attempting to reach the 6th bolt, a lot of large pieces of loose rock were encountered on still pretty difficult ground, with a potential large fall awaiting. So I bailed from the 4th bolt. Looking at this from the ground, I couldn't see any bolts past the sixth bolt, and no sign of a second pitch. It did look like there were a set of anchors that could have been the end of the first pitch.

I normally don't post routes I haven't sent, but if anyone has any more information on this route, please post up, otherwise stay off of this unfinished chosspile.

With enough cleaning this could probably be a 1-2 star route.


Location 

Far right side of Solar Cave, furthest route to the right. Starts about 10 feet left of the start for "Sundevil".


Protection 

Bolts to anchors



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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 25, 2009

A little history on this route.

  • Bolted by Marc Beverly
  • Climbed by Marc and John Kear, both pitches, it looked OK. Though Marc did pull off a rather large hold oon the first pitch narrowly missing John while he was belaying.
  • Lance then bolted another sport route that shares the start of the 5.12c to the left but traversed further up into Suicidal Society. Upon getting into Suicidal he started cleaning that route as well. Among other things he pulled off was a mini fridge size block with one of the bolts in it. I guess Lance later replaced the bolt.
  • At this point I'm not sure of the current state of the route as Lance I belive eventually abandoned the harder route coming in from the left.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 8, 2009

Thanks for the history guys. What's the deal with the chopped bolts?

By Aaron Miller
Feb 21, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

While installing Astro Devil in Feb. 2011(which by the way now shares the first 30 feet of this route), I did some major cleaning on S.S. and some retro bolting and the route has taken on a pretty new character. I cleaned the shit out of it and it has gotten a little bit harder as a result, but at least now it is very climbable. I don't know why the 4th and 5th bots were chopped, or by whom, but perhaps it was for the better because now they are placed in more friendly locations. Basically I had to tear away a bunch of hollow rock so that I could place a solid bolt where it was needed, and not in some awkward spot because it was the only good rock.

I also got to the top of the second pitch and spent a full day cleaning that pitch. The bolts seemed to be in the right spots, and in good rock so that didn't change. But I did rip out about 30 tons of rock, some huge pieces to boot. But, after climbing it, I think it became a pretty nice line after all.

Thanks for getting it put up in the first place John and Marc, I know it can be a huge job on some of those walls.

A comment on establishing routes in Diablo...

Some of the rock is absolute crap. Some of the rock is bullet hard and golden with great features. Some of the rock is between these states but may also have an aesthetic line with great position on it. This is where route development takes a ton of work. It is usually worth it, we now have several fantastic routes that have been hard-won because of the extra cleaning efforts.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 27, 2013

Bring a few long runners, because this line takes a sharp traverse left after leaving the 4th or 5th bolt shared with Icarus. There is one bolt at the end of the left-traverse (from the abandoned line between this and "ILL"?), which you could clip but might want to skip or back clean, to avoid rope drag.
(Also, I couldn't figure out the 2nd roof on p1, and I'm usually ok on 11+ at Diablo, but it was hot and I was tired. Seemed hard/weird though. I bailed to the "ILL" finish.)