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Suggestions for sunny multipitch route in Eldo
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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Jan 22, 2014
Approach to Whitney

Hello gurus of MP--does anyone know of any good moderate multipitch routes in Eldo that will stay in the sun most of the day this week? This Thursday is supposed to be snowy, and I'm going to be climbing Friday.
Bastille is obviously out; I'm thinking west Redgarden might be too much in the shade. Any suggestions? Thanks people!


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 22, 2014
West Overhang

  • Wind Tower
  • S-facing routes on Redgarden (note: the start of routes like Touch and Go tend to stay shaded during the winter; plan to rap if the E Slabs are super snowy)
  • W Ridge


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By Dave Holliday
Jan 22, 2014
The one they call The Husky, Natasha Holliday, Esq., enjoying Dog Dayz at Scott Carpenter Pool.

Long John Wall. Sooberb Lite (Sooberb without the crux roof); that's a good one for a little later in the day because the dihedral faces west-ish. Ignonimity. Chianti. This time of year, Rewritten gets full sun around 10:30am or so.


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Jan 22, 2014
Approach to Whitney

Great! Sounds like the west ridge is the winner, and hopefully the snow doesn't stick. Thanks everyone!


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Jan 22, 2014
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Mail Tower Link Up This is a great route. Not really that "moderate" but not all that difficult either. You can skip "Chick on The Side" and just cut to the good stuff on P2. Finishes on Handcracker. Awesome. Sleep in, gets afternoon sun- then descend the east side of West Ridge and climb something like Darkness Till Dawn or first two pitches of Green Spur.


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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Jan 22, 2014
Just a teaser

Ruper on the Redgarden. As mentioned before, you may need to rap the chockstone chimney - vertigo raps if the east ledges are messy.


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By Ralph Swansen
From Denver CO
Jan 22, 2014
Escalante Canyon

Just did Ruper last Saturday. It was in the sun the whole time.


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Jan 22, 2014
Approach to Whitney

I'll have to put Mail Tower Link up on my to do list, looks like a great route. Nice to know Ruper was in the sun all day, that might be a good one to do, although leaning more towards Long John Wall since I haven't done it yet. Thanks!


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 22, 2014
West Overhang

re: Ruper

The low angle E-facing approach slab dries out slower than the route, and in general is polished in spots. You can also approach the start from the west side (5.2 move near the bottom then easy), which holds snow b/c it is ledgy, but IMO would be less spicy than wet polished slab.


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