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suggestions for Sierra this summer
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Jun 15, 2013
I might have the opportunity to head out to California this summer for 8-10 days, and like any good climber I'm already planning escaping my responsibilities for a majority of that time and getting into the Sierra for 7 or so days.

I wanted to get some input on what areas would give me the best bang for my buck. If I had more time I'd explore for myself, but won't have a lot of time to spare so any help would be much appreciated.

I'm looking to climb trad lines, anywhere from single pitch cragging to ~10 pitch alpine, up to the 5.10/11 range. High concentration of goodies would be awesome, but willing to travel for gems. Don't need the trade routes, just some suggestions that you think are worthwhile. Free camping a bonus. Ideally, there'd be a good base camp and a week's worth of good Sierra granite. I'm not picky though, I'd just like to get out and move over smooth granite for a couple hundred feet, not bleed like a stuck pig on 30ft Vedauwoo OWs.

Thanks in advance!
VerticalUrge
Joined Sep 19, 2011
5 points
Jun 15, 2013
It would be hard to go wrong camping at Lovers leap. Great granite, not much bloodshed. Can be crowded but there's lots of other stuff nearby that isn't.
Oh, and they will kill you if you call the Sierra the Sierras.
Court
Joined May 4, 2013
67 points
Administrator
Jun 15, 2013
El Chorro
Bivy/camp outside of Yosemite on the Tuolomne side. Email me an I'll tell you a good place that's free.

Day 1: Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome.
Day 2: Third Pillar of Dana
Day 3: Harding Route on Mt. Conness
Day 4: Drive down to Twin Lakes - Mono Village, hike into Incredible Hulk
Day 5: Climb Positive Vibes or Red Dihedral and the hike out if you choose.
Day 6: Climb the Hulk again or hike out or rest or cragging.
Day 7: Lots more stuff around there, you choose...
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Jun 15, 2013
Owens Gorge.  Mt Tom in background.
Ryan Williams wrote:
Day 1: Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome. Day 2: Third Pillar of Dana Day 3: Harding Route on Mt. Conness


Good non-trade route suggestions considering the potential for heat and crowds this Summer. I was going to suggest spending most of your time in the Needles, followed by a couple of days on the Hulk.

Between the Needles, Tuolumne and Hulk you can't go wrong!
Zirkel
From Bishop, CA
Joined Mar 18, 2007
125 points
Jun 15, 2013
thanks for the info ya'll VerticalUrge
Joined Sep 19, 2011
5 points
Jun 17, 2013
Hello
great suggestion by Ryan Williams SirTobyThe3rd
Joined Mar 12, 2012
892 points
Jun 17, 2013
The West Desert...it's not just for climbing, suck...
You better be an incredibly burly alpine hiker with Ryan's schedule. Maybe cut that in half for a normal person who is still very fit. Lucky Streaks is the only thing with no approach. Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 5, 2007
2,474 points
Jun 17, 2013
First day of school
Lol ! Totally , that's a Sierra Challenge like itinerary ... vincent L.
From Redwood City
Joined Jan 1, 2005
617 points
Jun 17, 2013
Maybe switch up Dana and Lucky Streaks so's you get a rest day.

BTW, these are all trade routes.
Rob Dillon
Joined Mar 22, 2002
993 points
Administrator
Jun 19, 2013
El Chorro
All trade routes, yes. I am not a Cali local, was just giving an example itinerary. To be fair, we were either alone or with one other party on all of these routes in August, with the exception of Third Pillar (3 parties that day). There are plenty of other routes that are less popular but I seriously doubt you'll run into heavy traffic on Harding route, Positive Vibes, etc. Might not be alone either, but that's no reason not to climb the best routes around.

Rob's suggestion makes sense, but the approach to Third Pillar isn't bad, it's just long. Route is easy for 5.10. Down climb to the base is the hardest part of the day.

Harding route in a day will make you want to take a rest day. Drive down to the Hulk and walking in casually qualifies as a rest day in my book.

To be clear, I live at sea level and hadn't climbed in 6 weeks when I landed in CA. I'm not super alpine star. Just a normal person.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Jun 19, 2013
Upper Parunuweap Canyon
Ryan Williams wrote:
...I seriously doubt you'll run into heavy traffic on Harding route, Positive Vibes, etc....


Harding Route or Polish Route, unlikely to have lines, but plan on hitting Positive Vibes midweek. That and Red Dihedral are the most popular routes on the Hulk and getting more popular every year.

The approach to Third Pillar is mellow (far more so than the Hulk); you hike across the Dan Plateau and drop down a gully from the top of the formation.
fossana
From Sin City & Bishop
Joined Apr 30, 2006
12,121 points


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