BETA PHOTO: Sugarsmack boulder looking almost straight on at S...
Looking a lot like a sugarcube, this almost sidelaid dice boulder sits just downhill from the Canyon Trail, and is part of the Canyon Trail Boulders.
While this 15 foot high boulder contains only a few problems of (comparitively) hard ratings, the Canyon Trail is still under development, and you'll find the climbing from 5.8 to V4 on the Sugarcube. Highball climbs on the downhill side of the Sugarcube require some interesting crashpad placements, as the steep hillside could potentially yield some nasty spills.
The shady trees make this an excellent escape from the relentless sun in the summer months, though it will be cool and wet in the winter.
Watch out for poison oak. While not everywhere, it's definately around in the park.
Approach time: 8 minutes.
To get to this boulder, drive 3.3 miles up Adobe Canyon Road from highway 12 into the Sugarloaf Ridge State Park to a 8-12 car pullout on your left. Park.
Cross the street and head downhill on the Canyon Trail, which will have a small 3' high sign pointing you in the right direction.
Walk downhill on the windy and gently steep trail past the Canyon Trail Boulder, which will be the obvious 12 foot high on the left. Continue downhill just past the first drainage break, and continue on about 200 yards, where you will see a large mossy boulder on your left. Walk towards this boulder and past it heading downhill, and the SugarSmack Boulder will be the second boulder that you run into, looking like a cube sitting on a point. All problems are on the downhill sides, and are not visible from the approach.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for SugarSmack Boulder:
On the downhill side of the Sugarsmack boulder, this problem starts on a jug below some unbrushed loose crap at the arete on the low end of the boulder. From the jug, move left staying low, and treverse up to the section of the face where there are actually good hands. Top out via a jug that's oh so nice....[more]Browse More Classics in CA