Looking a lot like a sugarcube, this almost sidelaid dice boulder sits just downhill from the Canyon Trail, and is part of the Canyon Trail Boulders.
While this 15 foot high boulder contains only a few problems of (comparitively) hard ratings, the Canyon Trail is still under development, and you'll find the climbing from 5.8 to V4 on the Sugarcube. Highball climbs on the downhill side of the Sugarcube require some interesting crashpad placements, as the steep hillside could potentially yield some nasty spills.
The shady trees make this an excellent escape from the relentless sun in the summer months, though it will be cool and wet in the winter.
Watch out for poison oak. While not everywhere, it's definately around in the park.
Approach time: 8 minutes.
To get to this boulder, drive 3.3 miles up Adobe Canyon Road from highway 12 into the Sugarloaf Ridge State Park to a 8-12 car pullout on your left. Park.
Cross the street and head downhill on the Canyon Trail, which will have a small 3' high sign pointing you in the right direction.
Walk downhill on the windy and gently steep trail past the Canyon Trail Boulder, which will be the obvious 12 foot high on the left. Continue downhill just past the first drainage break, and continue on about 200 yards, where you will see a large mossy boulder on your left. Walk towards this boulder and past it heading downhill, and the SugarSmack Boulder will be the second boulder that you run into, looking like a cube sitting on a point. All problems are on the downhill sides, and are not visible from the approach.
This route starts on the jug of the Sugarsmack traverse, and pulls through the crappy hand of the Finger Tingla, bypassing the large jug to the left of the tiny arete. Walk off the back....[more]Browse More Classics in CA