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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Reamin' T 
Flat Battery T,TR 
Hotwire T 
Jump Start T,TR 
Lieback Crack T 
Little Spark T,TR 
Magnet T,TR 
Mechanic, The T 
Power Smart T,TR 
Stairway T,TR 
Thriller Off the Void T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sugarloaf  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 1,472
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 30, 2007
Forecast:
Today

61-77°F
Tue

57-79°F
Wed

51-74°F
Thu

51-69°F
Fri

52-73°F
Sat

52-79°F
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BETA PHOTO: The south side of Sugarloaf.

Description 

This very popular crag offers two different faces to the world. A south side with six routes from 5.4 to 5.8, combined with access to the top and bolted anchors, guarantees that you will not be alone here if you can find a free climb at all. A great place to learn to climb or lead trad. The north side has much harder and more interesting climbing. Again, the access to the top ensures that there are often top-ropes on these although most are good leads.

Getting There 

From the Murrin Park parking lot, head up the trail found a few car widths right of the outhouses. After a few minutes of uphill forest you'll pop out into a clearing and the wall will be obvious on your right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf:
Magnet   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Mechanic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Power Smart   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf

Featured Route For Sugarloaf

Thriller Off the Void 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  North America : Canada : ... : Sugarloaf
The Bourdon guide unaccountably designates this pleasant pitch a super classic. Far easier in the grade than the nearby Block and Tackle.On the north side of Sugarloaf, climb left facing corner with a wide crack. Pull up onto the face and climb an 80+ degree face with some fingerlocks past three bolts; the crux moves between bolts two and three are pretty easy if you identify the footholds before launching into the sequence. Belay off the power tower....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Sugarloaf Slideshow Add Photo
The north side of Sugarloaf.
BETA PHOTO: The north side of Sugarloaf.

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