BETA PHOTO: The south side of Sugarloaf.
This very popular crag offers two different faces to the world. A south side with six routes from 5.4 to 5.8, combined with access to the top and bolted anchors, guarantees that you will not be alone here if you can find a free climb at all. A great place to learn to climb or lead trad. The north side has much harder and more interesting climbing. Again, the access to the top ensures that there are often top-ropes on these although most are good leads.
From the Murrin Park parking lot, head up the trail found a few car widths right of the outhouses. After a few minutes of uphill forest you'll pop out into a clearing and the wall will be obvious on your right.
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf:
Magnet 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf
Magnet 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c North America
: ... : Sugarloaf
The route is a fairly sustained easy climb. There are a couple of larger steps that have to be made in the middle. In all, it's a fun route that can be used either as an introduction to traditional lead climbing or to perfect gear placements. Essentially, just follow the cracks to the right of the white slab up to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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BETA PHOTO: The north side of Sugarloaf.