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This very popular crag offers two different faces to the world. A south side with six routes from 5.4 to 5.8, combined with access to the top and bolted anchors, guarantees that you will not be alone here if you can find a free climb at all. A great place to learn to climb or lead trad. The north side has much harder and more interesting climbing. Again, the access to the top ensures that there are often top-ropes on these although most are good leads.
From the Murrin Park parking lot, head up the trail found a few car widths right of the outhouses. After a few minutes of uphill forest you'll pop out into a clearing and the wall will be obvious on your right.
9 Total Routes
Featured Route For Sugarloaf
At the far right-hand edge of the South Wall is a steep corner with a flake on the left, followed by a wide crack.Go up this to a great hand crack above. Without big gear, the wide section is very runout. However, the climbing is easy, past mantles on the right. A groundfall is possible here without gear to 6 inches (or more). Large gear would eliminate the "R" from this route. It is good either way.The crux is right off the ground (unless you decide to throw yourself INTO the wide crack in...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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