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This very popular crag offers two different faces to the world. A south side with six routes from 5.4 to 5.8, combined with access to the top and bolted anchors, guarantees that you will not be alone here if you can find a free climb at all. A great place to learn to climb or lead trad. The north side has much harder and more interesting climbing. Again, the access to the top ensures that there are often top-ropes on these although most are good leads.
From the Murrin Park parking lot, head up the trail found a few car widths right of the outhouses. After a few minutes of uphill forest you'll pop out into a clearing and the wall will be obvious on your right.
11 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf:
Magnet 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf
Follow a flake and crack up and leftward, through a blocky scoop and passing abulging overhang. Small cams and nuts can be placed, but gear requires some finesse and thought. Eventually, face climbing on positive edges leads to lower-angle terrain at the top....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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